Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Carvalho was stabbed in the chest while crossing a bridge on the way home in 1765;
a slave called Antônio had his leg broken and was half-buried for hours in a mine
cave-in. On the first floor, look out for the several figures of saints - crafted with a
simplicity and directness that makes them stand out - made by ordinary people in the
eighteenth century.
Museu FEB and around
Av Hermílo Alves at Andrade Reis • Mon-Fri noon-5pm • R$1 • T 32 3379 1315
For a break from all things Baroque, visit the Museu da Força Expedicionária Brasileira
(Brazilian Expeditionary Force Museum), which tells the story of the country's
involvement in World War II (especially the fighting in Italy 1944-45), including
combat garb, radios, photographs, weapons, banknotes and fascinating news clippings
from the period.
2
Museu Ferroviário
Av Hermílo Alves 366 • Wed-Sun 9-11am & 1-5pm • R$3 • T 32 3371 8485
Inside the nineteenth-century train station, the Museu Ferroviário charts the history of
the Maria Fumaça, or “Smoking Mary” (see box opposite), from its inception in the
1870s, and also houses the first engine to run on the track here (the type of old
American-made “Baldwin” locomotives you see in Westerns).
Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo
Largo do Carmo, Av Getúlio Vargas • Daily 8.30am-11am & 1-5pm • R$4
The elegant facade of Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo dominates a beautiful
triangular praça at the eastern end of Avenida Getúlio Vargas. It's another church
designed by Aleijadinho in the eighteenth century - note his exquisite sculptures
around the entrance.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
SÃO JOÃO DEL REI
By train The old steam train service, the Maria Fumaça ,
leaves São João station (Av Hermílo Alves 366; ticket o ce
Wed-Sat 9-11am & 1-5pm, Sun 9am-1pm; T 32 3371
8485, W trilhosdeminas.com) for the 12km ride to
Tiradentes on Fri & Sat at 10am and 3pm, returning at 1pm
and 5pm, and on Sun at 10am and 1pm, returning 11am &
2pm (R$40 one-way, R$50 return; 35min).
By bus The rodoviária ( T 32 3373 4700) is 2km northeast
of the centre; leaving the bus station, cross over Rua
Cristovão Colombo and take a local bus (R$2.30) from in
front of the drogaria and get off at Av Tancredo Neves
(10min). Taxis ( T 32 3371 2028) charge R$15-20.
Destinations Belo Horizonte (8 daily; 3hr 30min);
Caxambu (4 weekly; 3hr); Congonhas (6 daily; 1hr 50min);
Ouro Preto (2 daily; 4hr); Rio (3 daily; 5hr); São Paulo
(8 daily; 7-8hr); Tiradentes (every 30min; 30min); Três
Corações (4 daily; 4hr); Vitória (1 daily; 13hr).
Information Across from the Catedral at Praça Frei
Orlando 90 (daily 8am-5pm; T 32 3372 738).
ACCOMMODATION
Finding somewhere to stay is rarely a problem as accommodation in São João is plentiful and good value, though hotels
and pousadas here are not nearly as attractive as those in neighbouring Tiradentes (see p.173). Bear in mind, however,
that the town is a popular spot to spend Carnaval in, and Easter celebrations also attract huge numbers of visitors; at
these times advance reservations are essential.
Brasil Av Tancredo Neves 395 T 32 3371 2804. Facing
the river, the biggest hotel in town gives a whole new
meaning to faded grandeur, with fifty very simple, clean
rooms (some with bathrooms) that surely haven't
chang ed m uch since the place opened in 1881. Free
wi-fi. R$90
Pousada Beco do Bispo Rua Beco do Bispo 93 T 32
3373 0992, W becodobispo.com.br. The poshest digs in
town can be found at this stylish central option, with
beautifully decorated rooms (free wi-fi), great b reakfast
and a friendly English-speaking host, Nitza. R$280
Pousada Rotunda Rua Conselheiro Belisário Leite de
Andrade Neto 100 T 32 3372 2699, W pousadarotunda
.com.br. Next to the train station, this enchanting,
whimsical choice features rusti c room s, outdoor pool, cable
TV, free wi-fi and a pool table. R$220
 
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