Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Basílica de São Pedro dos Clérigos
Largo de São Pedro (Rua Dom Silvério) • Tues-Sun 9am-noon & 2-4pm • R$2
From Praça Minas Gerais it's a short uphill walk via the unspoilt Rua Dom Silvério to the
mid-eighteenth-century
Basílica de São Pedro dos Clérigos
that overlooks the town, framed
by groves of towering palm trees. The sumptuous facade was started in 1752, but the
church was never formally completed. The object is not so much to check out the Basílica
interior (though you might want to climb the tower), but to enjoy the view of the town
stretched out before you; if you follow the path along the edge the views are even better.
2
Mina da Passagem
MG-262 (Mariana-Ouro Preto) • Mon & Tues 9am-5pm, Wed-Sun 9am-5.30pm; tours last 1hr • R$30 •
T
31 3557 5000,
W
minasdapassagem.com.br • Take the Ouro Preto-Mariana bus (R$3.15) and ask to get off at the stop opposite the mine; taxis from
Ouro Preto charge R$30 one-way, and R$20/hr to wait for you
Four kilometres from Mariana (on the road to Ouro Preto), among steep hills bearing
clear traces of centuries of mining, the historic gold mine of
Mina da Passagem
is one of
the area's more unusual sights. Gold was first extracted here in 1719, making it one of
the oldest deep-shaft gold mines in the country. The mine's nine faces have long since
closed and the site exists today as a tourist attraction. Once you've purchased tickets,
walk to the mine head via the tiny museum (full of rusting equipment) and craft store.
At the mine head you line up to board what for many tourists is the main attraction: a
rickety open-seat railcar that trundles 315m down a steep slope into the main tunnel (be
careful of bumping your head). The railcar is driven by a drum cable powered by a vintage
1825
British steam engine
, now adapted to run on compressed air. Once at the bottom,
guides lead you around the dripping, muddy but fairly spacious main tunnel, with smaller
galleries branching off into the gloom in all directions. Tours end at a small, crystalline
floodlit
lake
, 120m underground, and round off with a demonstration of gold panning
back on the surface, complete with real gold. Note that you are supposed to stay with your
guide underground, though they rarely speak English - you'll be very bored if you don't
understand Portuguese (ask at the ticket o
ce if there are any English-speakers available).
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
MARIANA
By train
The “Trem da Vale” tourist train links Mariana
with Ouro Preto, 12km to the west. Trains depart Fri-Sun
2pm (they depart Ouro Preto at 10am). Tickets are R$40
one-way or R$50 return (the “panoramic wagon” is R$60/
R$80). The train station is located near the centre at Praça
Juscelino Kubitschek, and open Tues-Sun 8.30am-5.30pm.
By bus
Transcota buses from Ouro Preto (daily
5.30am-11.30pm; every 20min; R$3.15) stop right in the
centre of town at Praça Tancredo Neves (Av. Salvador
Furtado). If you're coming from Belo Horizonte or São
Paulo, you'll arrive at the rodoviária (
T
31 3557 1122), on
the main road a couple of kilometres from the centre; if you
don't wish to walk into the centre, catch one of the buses
from Ouro Preto, which pass through the rodoviária every
20min or so.
Information
Praça Tancredo Neves, opposite the bus stop
(Tues-Sun 8am-noon & 1.30-5pm;
T
31 3557 1158,
W
mariana.org.br). There's also a smaller o
ce at Rua
Direita 91, a short walk into the old town, which can also
supply maps (Mon-Fri 8am-5pm;
T
31 3558 2314).
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Chantilly Confeitaria
Rua Frei Durão 32
T
31 3557
3195.
The best café on Praça Gomes Freire, in a building
completed in 1925, offering mouth-watering cakes,
chocolates, coffee, quiche and
empadas
.
Daily 8am-9pm.
Hotel Providência
Rua Dom Silvério 233
T
31 3577
1444,
W
hotelprovidencia.com.br.
Moderate, clean and
tidy option in a former religious school dating from 1849,
along the road that leads up to the Basílica. Rooms come
with fan, fridge and TV, but wi-fi is only available in public
areas (R$10/day). The hotel also has use of
the ne
ighbouring
school's pool when classes finish at noon.
R$205
Rancho
Praça Gomes Freire 108
T
31 3557 3444.
Excellent local cuisine is kept warm on a wood-fire stove
here, as well as a selection of pizzas (from R$28). Also
does a lunchtime buffet (R$24), soups (R$6) and
petiscos
(from R$10) at night.
Tues-Sun 11am-3pm &
6pm-midnight.
Scotch & Art Bar
Praça Minas Gerais 57.
Great location
for an evening tipple, with a terrace overlooking the
churches on the plaza and a menu of tasty bar snacks.
Tues-Sun 6.30pm-2am.
