Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
historic centre is compensated for by spacious, though
rather basic, rooms, a pool and a lovely garden where the
superb breakfast is served.
The A
merican-Brazilian owners
are extremely welcoming.
R$250
Pousada da Marquesa
Rua Dona Geralda 69
T
24 3371 1263.
Discreet luxury
pousada
offering an
attractive pool and wonderful views of the town from the
bedrooms.
Avoid t
he rooms in the annexe, as they're on the
small side.
R$550
★
but impeccably kept; most have a balcony and all have a
private bathroom. The
pousada
is superb value (prices
remain the same all year), but because it's popular,
reservations are usu
ally es
sential - request a room
overlooking the
praça
.
R$150
Tropical
Rua Waldemar Mathias 38
T
24 3371 2020,
W
paratytropical.com.br.
Set in a residential area just
south of the rodoviária. Rooms are plain, but ask for one on
the upper
floor,
as they're quieter and have better
ventilation.
R$240
★
1
Pousada do Ouro
Rua Dr Pereira 145
T
24 3371
2033,
W
pousadaouro.com.br.
The least expensive luxury
pousada
in Paraty, boasting a range of tastefully furnished
rooms - spacious and light in the main building, but rather
small and dark in the annexe.
There's
a lovely walled
garden and a good-size pool, too.
R$451
Solar dos Gerânios
Praça da Matriz
T
24 3371 1550.
This beautiful and long-established
pousada
is filled with
rustic furniture and curios. The rooms are small and spartan
Vivenda
Rua Beija-flor 9
T
24 3371 4272,
W
vivendaparaty.com.
A 15min walk from the historic
centre, this modern, elegant, yet immensly relaxing B&B
has a double room and two spacious bungalows with
kitchenettes set around a leafy patio garden and pool. The
owner is a perfect host, providing local
advice
(and
caipirinhas
) without ever being overbearing.
R$341
EATING
Anconchego Grill
Rua do Comércio 10
T
24 3371
6175,
W
aconchegohotel.com.br.
The best meat in town,
but, in addition to the Argentine steaks (R$46-55),
excellent fish dishes are on offer too, as well as an
assortment of salads.
Daily 11am-midnight.
★
seafood and meat dishes, all flambéed with local
cachaça
- R$34 for prawns, or R$30 for the vegetarian flambée
with palm hearts.
6pm-1am; closed Wed.
Le Gite d'Indaiatiba
BR-101, Km 562, Graúna
T
24 3371
7174 or 9999 9923,
W
legitedindaiatiba.com.br.
At this
outstanding restaurant, the French chef serves a few classic
dishes as well as his own creations based on local ingredients.
Set inland from Paraty, the mountainside location is stunning,
and it's a wonderful place to spend an afternoon - or longer,
as it's also a
pousada
(bring a towel and you can use the
cachoeira
). If you don't have your own transport, phone ahead
for a possible lift.
Daily 1.30-8.30pm.
Margarida Café
Praça Chafariz
T
24 3371 2441,
W
margaridacafe.com.br.
A very popular tourist
restaurant with live music (light crooning) to justify the
R$21.70 cover charge. A prawn
moqueca
for two goes for
R$121, or you can opt for a rack of lamb at R$65.90.
Executive lunches are more reasonable at R$36.90.
Mon-
Fri noon-midnight, Sat & Sun noon-1am.
Sabor da Terra
Av Roberto Silveira 180
T
24 3371
2384,
W
paraty.com.br/sabordaterra.
Paraty's best
por quilo
restaurant (R$36.80/kg), offering a wide variety
Banana da Terra
Rua Dr Samuel Costa 198
T
24 3371 1725,
W
restaurantebananadaterra.com.br.
Paraty's most interesting restaurant, emphasizing local
ingredients (especially bananas and plantains) and
regional cooking. The grilled fish with garlic-herb butter
and banana is delicious (R$75), as are the wonderful
banana desserts ($27-29).
Mon-Thurs 7pm-midnight,
Fri-Sun noon-4pm & 7pm-midnight.
Bartholomeu
Rua Dr Samuel Costa 176
T
24 3371
5032.
A relatively simple but good and moderately priced
menu that gives pride of place to Argentine beef filled with
Roquefort (R$170 for two), and seafood
moqueca
(R$66).
Mon-Thurs
5-11pm,
Fri-Sun
noon-4pm
&
7pm-midnight.
★
Casa do Fogo
Rua da Ferraria (aka Rua Comendador
José Luiz) 390
T
24 3371 3161,
W
casadofogo.com.br.
Attractively presented, immensely flavourful vegetable,
ACADEMY OF COOKING AND OTHER PLEASURES
For an unusual dining experience, drop by the
Academy of Cooking and Other Pleasures
at Rua Dona Geralda 288 (
T
24 3371 6025,
W
chefbrasil.com) to find out about events hosted
by Yara Castro Roberts. A professional cook and restaurant consultant, she has done much to
encourage interest in Brazilian food through cookery classes, television segments and writing.
Several evenings a week, Yara gives demonstrations in her home, alternating between menus
drawn from Rio, Bahia, the Amazon and Minas Gerais, her home state. The high point of the
evening comes when Yara and her guests sit around her dining-room table to enjoy food and
wine and sample some fine
cachaças
, of which she is a connoisseur. The evening, which
usually lasts from 8-11pm, costs R$210 per person, with groups limited to eight or so people.
