Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
1
COFFEE COUNTRY
To many people, Brazil means
coffee
like Assam means tea, and in the nineteenth century it did
dominate the coffee trade, but Rio's coffee boom - centred on the
Paraiba Valley
, some 200km
west of Petrópolis - was actually short-lived. It only got under way in the 1820s, and collapsed in
1888 with the abolition of slavery, on which the plantation owners were completely dependent.
More resourceful farmers migrated to São Paulo to take advantage of Italian and other immigrant
labour and the availability of fertile, well-watered land. Back in Rio state, single-crop farming in
the hilly terrain had eroded the soil, and felling the forest to plant coffee had altered the climate,
causing drought, so the coffee barons had to abandon their
fazendas
(plantations) or look for
other uses of their land. Dairy farming was eventually found to work, and today almost all the
land is given over to cattle grazing, and evidence of the coffee boom is most clearly apparent in
the
fazenda houses
that are left standing in various states of repair.
With a few days and, ideally, a car, a visit to the Paraiba Valley can be fascinating. It can be
reached in two hours from Rio, and is a convenient stop-off between Petrópolis and Paraty.
A particularly attractive place to make for is
Rio das Flores
, a sleepy little spot dotted with
grand
fazenda
house.
INFORMATION AND ACCOMMODATION
Tourist o
ces
The Paraiba Valley towns all have tourist
information o
ces, among which the one in Rio das Flores
is at Rua Aniceto de Madeiros Corrêa 156 (daily 8am-5pm;
T
24 2458 0475,
W
www.riodasflores.rj.gov.br). They can
usually help with visiting old coffee
fazendas
; among
these, the slightly run-down look of
Fazenda Campos
Eliseos
, established in 1847, contrasts greatly with the
beautifully preserved
Fazenda Santa Justa
(the detail of
the period decor of the
casa grande
seemingly leaping
from the pages of a coffee-table book).
Midweek, the price drops by more than half.
R$490
★
Solar do Império
Av Koeller 376
T
24 2103 3000,
W
solardoimperio.com.br.
Set among the city's most
elegant residences, this Neoclassical mansion is now a
luxurious hotel. All the rooms have been restored to their
period splendour, while every modern convenience and
comfort is also offered. The grounds include a
small in
door
pool, and there's a fine restaurant (see below).
R$479
Pousada Monte Imperial
Rua José Alencar 27
T
24
2237 1664,
W
pousadamonteimperial.com.br.
Located on
a hilltop, this
pousada
has the look and air of an Alpine inn and
is a stiff walk from the town's attractions. Rooms are quite
small but appealing, and there's a nice garden with
a pool,
too;
the English-speaking owner is extremely friendly.
R$215
EATING AND DRINKING
★
Alcobaça
Rua Dr Agostinho Goulão 298, Corrêas
T
24 2221 1240,
W
www.pousadadaalcobaca.com.br.
This country inn (20min by taxi or bus from the centre) is a
delightful setting for a leisurely lunch or dinner. Using fresh
ingredients such as local dairy produce, freshwater fish,
and vegetables and herbs from the kitchen garden, food is
both unpretentious and excellent. Be sure to allow time
after lunch for a gentle walk in the beautiful gardens.
Reservations advisable.
Daily 1-5pm & 7-9pm.
Bordeaux
Av Ipiranga 716
T
24 2242 5711,
W
bordeauxvinhos.com.br.
In the converted stables of
one of Petrópolis's most beautiful stately homes (see
opposite), the moderately priced Italian- and French-
influenced offerings here include smoked local trout to
start (R$29.90) with solid meat dishes such as steak au
poivre (R$44.90) to complement the excellent wine list.
Daily noon-midnight.
Casa d'Angelo
Rua do Imperador 700
T
24 2242 0888.
A
chopperia
(beer bar) and restaurant, slap-bang in the
centre of town, which has been filling Petropolitan bellies
with solid grub since 1914. Lunchtime
pratos executivos
(till
4pm) go for R$14.90, or you can tuck into a supper-time
stroganoff for R$28, and of course wash it down with an ice-
cold glass of
chopp
.
Daily 8am-midnight.
★
Imperatriz
Leopoldina
Solar do Império hotel, Av
Koeller 376
T
24 2103 3000.
The chef has given a
contemporary slant dishes inspired by Empress Leopoldina's
supposed love of Brazilian ingredients and flavours.
Favourites include beef fondue (R$86) and duck confit
(R$58). Mon-Fri 6am-10pm, Sat & Sun 6am-midnight.
Massas Luigi
Praça da Liberdade 185
T
24 2246 0279,
W
massasluigi.com.br.
Although considered the best
Italian restaurant in town, its pasta offerings, including
penne with a choice of sauces for R$19.90, may disappoint
purists. On the other hand, there's a good pasta buffet, and
you won't leave hungry.
Daily 11am-midnight.
Paladar
Rua Barão do Amazonas 25
T
24 2243 1143,
W
paladarpetropolis.com.br.
A
por quilo
buffet with a
varied choice of salads and Brazilian hot dishes (R$46.90/
kg). Located within a nineteenth-century mansion, you can
either eat indoors or on the shaded terrace overlooking
Praça da Liberdade.
Daily 11am-4pm & 6pm-midnight.
