Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
1
Petrópolis
Sixty-six kilometres directly north of Rio de Janeiro, high in the mountains, stands
the imperial city of
PETRÓPOLIS
. In fine weather, the journey from Rio is glorious.
On the way up, sit on the left-hand side of the bus for great views along a one-way
road, bordered by naked rock on one side and a sheer drop on the other; the return
to Rio is made by a slightly different route that also snakes its way through terrifying
mountain passes. The landscape is dramatic, climbing among forested slopes that give
way suddenly to ravines and gullies, while clouds shroud the surrounding mountains.
You can easily visit Petrópolis as a day-trip from Rio, or instead continue to
Teresopólis or inland. It's possible to ignore the tra
c congestion and fumes of the
commercial area, as most sights are in the older, quieter part of town. Although
Petrópolis is quite spread out, you can easily stroll around it, taking in plenty of elegant
nineteenth-century mansions, particularly along
Avenida Koeller
and
Avenida Ipiranga
In 1720,
Bernardo Soares de Proença
opened a trade route between Rio and Minas
Gerais, and in return was conceded the area around the present site of Petrópolis as a
royal land grant. Surrounded by stunning scenery, and with a gentle, alpine summer
climate, it had by the nineteenth century become a favourite retreat of Rio's elite. The
arrival of German immigrants contributed to the development of the town, and has
much to do with its curious European Gothic feel. Dom Pedro II took a fancy to
Petrópolis and in 1843 designated it the summer seat of his government. He also
established a German agricultural colony, which failed because of the unsuitability of
the soil, and in 1849 - with an epidemic of yellow fever sweeping through Rio - he
and his court took refuge in the town, thus assuring its prosperity.
Museu Imperial
Rua da Imperatriz 220 • Tues-Sun 11am-6pm; sound and light show Thurs-Sat 8pm • R$8; show R$20 •
T
24 2245 5550,
W
museuimperial.gov.br
he
Museu Imperial
is a fine Neoclassical structure set in beautifully maintained formal
gardens. Once the remarkably modest summer palace of Dom Pedro II, it now houses
a fascinating collection of the royal family's bits and pieces. On entry, you're given felt
overshoes with which to slide around the polished floors, and inside there's everything
from Dom Pedro's crown (639 diamonds, 77 pearls, all set in 2kg of finely wrought
gold) to the regal commode. In the former stables, the royal railway carriage is
displayed, while another building serves asan excellent
tearoom
. Three nights a week
the former palace is illuminated for a
sound and light show
- well worth attending for
the music alone, even if you don't understand the Portuguese narration.
Catedral São Pedro de Alcântara
Rua São Pedro de Alcântara • Daily 8am-6pm • Free
he
Catedral São Pedro de Alcântara
blends with the rest of the architecture around but
is much more recent than its rather overbearing neogothic style suggests - while work
began in 1884, it was only finished in 1939. Inside on the walls are ten relief sculptures
depicting scenes from the Crucifixion; in the mausoleum lie the tombs of Dom Pedro
himself, Princess Regent Dona Isabel and several other royal personages.
Palácio de Cristal
Rua Alfredo Pachá • Tues-Sun 9am-6pm • Free •
T
24 2247 3721
Like a miniature version of London's nineteenth-century Crystal Palace, Petrópolis's
Palácio de Cristal
, likewise made of cast iron and glass, dates from 1884. The town's last
slaves were manumitted in a ceremony here four years later. Prefabricated and shipped
