Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
1
CARNAVAL REHEARSALS
If you can't make Carnaval, give the shows put on for tourists in the Zona Sul a miss and get a
taste of the
samba schools
at the
ensaios
(rehearsals) below. They take place at weekends
from August to February: phone to confirm times and days. After New Year, Saturday nights are
packed solid with tourists and prices triple. Instead, go to one on a midweek evening or, better
still, on Sunday afternoon when there's no entrance fee and locals predominate.
Most of the schools are in distant
bairros
, often in, or on the edge of, a
favela
, but there's no need
to go accompanied by a guide. It's easy, safe and not too expensive to take a taxi there and back
(there are always plenty waiting to take people home). Of the schools,
Mangueira
is certainly the
most famous; it has a devoted following, a great atmosphere and includes children and old
people among its dancers. The gay-friendly
Salgueiro
has a more white, middle-class fanbase.
The
Cidade do Samba
(see p.67), a purpose-built arena and studio complex in Centro, is an
even easier way of observing Carnaval preparations. All the Division 1 schools are represented
here and their daily musical and dance demonstrations are produced for the public.
SAMBA SCHOOLS
Beija-Flor
Rua Pracinha Wallace Paes Leme 1025,
Nilopolis
T
21 2791 2866,
W
beija-flor.com.br. Founded
1948; blue and white.
Grande Rio
Rua Wallace Soares 5-6, Centro
T
green and pink.
Moçidade
Rua Coronel Tamarindo 38, Padre Miguel
T
21 3332 5823,
W
mocidadeindependente.com.br.
Founded 1955; green and white.
Portela
Rua Clara Nunes 81, Madureira
T
21 2489
6440,
W
gresportela.org.br. Founded 1923; blue
and white.
Salgueiro
Rua Silva Telles 104, Tijuca
T
21 2238 0389,
W
21 2671 3585,
W
academicosdogranderio.com.br.
Founded 1988; red and green.
Mangueira
Rua Visconde de Niterói 1702, Mangueira
T
21 2567 4637,
W
mangueira.com.br. Founded 1928;
salgueiro.com.br. Founded 1953; red and white.
R$850 - black tie or an extravagant costume is obligatory.
Monte Libano
Av Borges de Medeiros 701, Lagoa
T
21 2546 8433.
A series of big parties in the run-up to
Carnaval, often with a “last days of Rome” flavour, and
quite sexually charged, though safe to attend, and
reasonable at around R$80 a ticket.
Rio Scala
Avenida Treze de Maio 23, Cinelândia
T
21 2239 4448,
W
scalario.com.br.
In recent years, the
Rio Scala club has become an important centre for balls,
with a different line-up each night.
SHOPPING
It's not hard to find things to buy in Rio, but surprisingly di
cult to find much that's distinctively Brazilian. The best shopping area
is Ipanema, with a wealth of boutiques lining
Rua Visconde de Pirajá
and its side streets. Books and CDs make good purchases
- sales assistants in music stores are usually delighted to offer recommendations and you'll be able to listen before you buy.
Weekends are best, when migrants enjoying their day off
listen to live music here in the evenings; R$1 entry between
Fri 6pm & Sun noon (otherwise free).
Tues-Thurs
10am-6pm, Fri 10am-Sun 9pm.
Ipanema Hippie Market
Praça General Osório,
Ipanema;
M
Ipanema/General Osório; map pp.76-77.
Once it really was for hippies, but nowadays it's just a
touristy arts and crafts market, where they sell furnishings,
interior design and trendy knick-knacks.
Sun 7am-8pm.
MARKETS
Babilônia Feira Hype
Clube Monte Líbano, Av Borges
de Madeiros 701, Leblon
T
21 2267 0066,
W
babiloniafeirahype.com.br; map pp.76-77.
A good
selection of handicrafts as well as clothes and jewellery by
young designers hoping to get noticed; R$10 entry.
Irregular
weekends (check website for dates), Sat & Sun 2-10pm.
Feira Nordestina
Campo de São Cristovão, São
Cristovão (near Quinta da Boa Vista)
T
21 2580 5335,
W
feiradesaocristovao.org.br;
M
São Cristovão, or any
bus marked “São Cristovão” (including #312 from Av Rio
Branco).
Set up in the nineteenth century by the first wave
of immigrants from the Northeast, with 700 stalls (many
run by people in traditional costume) selling Northeastern
handicrafts, caged birds and food and drink, all to the
sound of Northeastern music. Best buys are hammocks,
leather bags and hats,
literatura de cordel
(illustrated folk-
literature pamphlets), herbal medicines and spices.
CRAFTS
Brasil & Cia
Rua Maria Qutéria 27, Ipanema
T
21 2267
4603,
W
brasilecia.com.br; map pp.76-77.
A range of
carefully chosen ceramics, paper, textiles and other crafts
sourced from throughout the country.
Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.
Casa de Artesanato do Estado do Rio
Rua Real
Grandeza 293, Botafogo
T
21 2332 8302,
W
www
.programadeartesanato.rj.gov.br;
M
Botafogo; map
