Bayou Byways - The Most Scenic Drives in America: 120 Spectacular Road Trips - page 774

1. Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and
Preserve
CrossingtheMississippiRiveratNewOrleans,theGreaterNewOrleansBridgesoarsover
grassy embankments that, from above, look not much larger than speed bumps. In fact,
these man-made levees, built to protect against flooding, are about 23 feet high—a hint
of the water-logged land that lies ahead. Once across the bridge, follow Rte. 90 (the West
Bank Expressway) west to Rte. 45, which leads south to the Barataria unit of Jean Lafitte
National Historical Park and Preserve.
Set on 8,600 acres of coastal wetlands (a medley of swamps, freshwater marshes, and
hardwood forests), the preserve is a fragile yet fertile wildlife breeding ground. On guided
toursandfloattrips,rangerspointoutsnoozingalligators,posedlikebumpylogs,andsome
ofthe200-oddspeciesofmigratorybirdsthatbreed,passthrough,orwinterhere.Fivehik-
ing trails weave among bottomland hardwoods, natural levees, a swamp of tupelo gum and
bald cypress trees, and a bayou once frequented by Jean Lafitte, the pirate turned patriot.
Leader of a large band of smugglers who prowled the waters of Barataria Bay in the
early 1800s, Lafitte was branded a pirate by Louisiana's American governor, who issued a
$500 bounty for his arrest. A self-proclaimed privateer—he considered himself licensed to
raid ships on the high seas—Lafitte is said to have doubled his offer to anyone who kid-
napped the governor. During the War of 1812, the British approached Lafitte for help in
capturing New Orleans, but he tipped off the authorities and cast his lot—men, ammuni-
tion, rifles, and military advice—with General Andrew Jackson to help him win the Battle
of New Orleans. Lafitte later moved his operation to Texas, leaving behind a rich legacy of
treasure tales that still fire the imagination.
Did you know…
Louisiana hasthehighest alligator population, approaching 2million. Although
alligators can be found in ponds, lakes, canals, rivers, swamps, and bayous, in
Louisiana the highest population occurs in coastal marshes.
2. Kraemer
ThedrivereturnstoRte.90andheadssouthwest.JustbeyondDesAllemands,veeroffonto
Rte.3199forashortdistance,thenturnnorthonRte.307,wheresugarcanefieldsgiveway
to wetlands as you follow the road to Kraemer, a base for alligator processing and swamp
tours.