North Shore Drive - The Most Scenic Drives in America: 120 Spectacular Road Trips - page 555

Brule's upper and lower falls come into view, the dull thunder of water crashing against
stone can be heard. But the best is yet to come. At Devils Kettle the river divides into two
channels that flirt with a lip of rock. The eastern fork plunges 70 feet into the gorge below;
the western one mysteriously disappears into a pothole just before the brink.
The road continues its curve into the northeastern corner of the state, sometimes re-
ferred to as Arrowhead Country for its distinctive triangular shape. North of Hovland the
Arrowhead Trail (atwo-lane gravel road)branches offtothe north,aninvitation toexplore
the Grand Portage State Forest and the many lakes of the Boundary Waters.
14. Grand Portage
The Chippewa Indians had long bypassed the risky rapids of the Pigeon River by an over-
land route, to which they gave a name meaning “great carrying place.” The high falls of
Pigeon River in the Grand Portage State Park straddle the border with Canada. A half-mile
trail leads to an overlook of the 120-foot waterfalls, the highest in the state.
With the expansion of the far-flung fur-trading empire of the North West Company in
theeighteenthcentury,thenine-milehaul(dubbedGrandPortagebyFrench-speakingvoy-
ageurs) became the gateway to the rich fur-trapping grounds of the Canadian wilderness.
After the ice broke up each spring, the voyageurs took their valuable pelts to a trading post
on the shore of Lake Superior, where they exchanged them for goods and money. Their
historic headquarters have been re-created on the spot as a national monument. The Grand
Portage itself still exists as a hiking trail.
For a dramatic view of Lake Superior, board a ferry to Isle Royale National Park, a
roadless wilderness 22miles offshore.Atdusktheisland'sremaining timber wolvessome-
times greet visitors with haunting howls.
Did you know…
During the exceptionally cold winter of 1948-49, an ice bridge formed between
CanadaandIsleRoyale,andasmallpackofEasterntimberwolvescrossedover
to the island. Since then, offshoots of the original packs became established
there. The wolves are important to maintaining a healthy moose population on
Isle Royale by preying on the very old, sick, or injured.