Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
As the drive veers to the south, it crosses the river, then follows near its course via
Rte. 285. Much of the river is encompassed by the Arkansas Headwaters Recreation Area,
a protected corridor that was established in 1989. The river's rapids range from the fairly
tame to frothy stretches that are rated among the state's most difficult. (A number of out-
fitters offer tours and supplies.) Ruby Mountain Recreation Site, a put-in point with camp-
ing and fishing, lies just upriver from Browns Canyon, where the Arkansas swirls between
the towering pink walls of 6,600-acre Browns Canyon Wilderness Study Area. The river,
however, does not have a monopoly on recreational activities here; inviting trails lace the
region, and hikers can hope to catch glimpses of mule deer, elk, eagles, and peregrine fal-
cons.
9. St. Elmo
A side trip, Rte. 162, turns away from the river and heads west for a nearly 2,000-foot
climb. Mts. Princeton and Antero, both Fourteeners, stand sentinel on opposite sides of the
road, which meanders next to Chalk Creek and its canyon, a prime foraging ground for
big-horn sheep. Agnes Vaille Falls, one of the largest in these parts, can be reached along a
short trail that begins just beyond Chalk Cliffs. The tumbling water creates a steady, sooth-
ing music, and the abundant spray keeps the ledges green with ferns and mosses.
Aspen groves, especially brilliant in the fall, dot the area's steep slopes for most of the
ascent. Then, at higher elevations, thick forests of Engelmann spruce and Douglas fir ap-
pear on the mountainsides. St. Elmo flourished during the region's gold rush but is now a
ghost town, where visitors can view old buildings and follow a railroad line to Alpine Tun-
nel, which burrows beneath the Continental Divide.
10. Salida
As the drive continues, it never strays far from the Arkansas River, which has widened and
become tamer after its escape from Browns Canyon. Farther along, switch onto Rte. 291
and follow the river to Salida, a small town backed by the Sangre de Cristo Mountains.
Sightseerscantouritshistoricdistrict,visitthemorethan20artist-ownedgalleries,sample
foods from distinctive restaurants, shop the unique stores, or stroll through Riverside Park.
Thanks to the surrounding mountains, which drain the passing clouds of most of their
moisture, portions of this area are said to be high desert. The riverbanks remain lush with
grasses,cottonwoods,andwillows,butasyoudepartSalidaonRte.50,theregionbecomes
decidedly more arid. Rabbitbrush, piƱons, and junipers are scattered across dry valleys.
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