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though; just before you reach Hole in the Rock, the road becomes nearly impassable, and
it's best to hike. Stop at Devils Rock Garden, where hoodoos provide an offbeat backdrop
for a picnic, and Dance Hall Rock, where settlers once held rollicking shindigs.
8. Calf Creek Recreation Area
There's a surprising abundance of water in this high desert. East 15 miles from Escalante
on Scenic Byway 12, you'll see Calf Creek. A stiff six-mile hike leads to its lower falls,
passing prehistoric ruins and rock art before reaching the pot of gold: a 126-foot-high cas-
cade tucked away in a shady cul-de-sac. Dip your toes into the pure, icy waters of the pool
at the bottom as your reward.
9. Boulder
Continuing north to Boulder, the drive crosses the Hogsback, a narrow ridge with steep
cliffs on either side. Just south of town lies the 66-mile Burr Trail, which retraces the
century-ago steps of pioneer rancher John A. Burr.
At Boulder, head for the Anasazi Indian Village State Park, a museum and partially ex-
cavated settlement that, over the years, has revealed pottery shards, axe heads, and other
artifacts. While Boulder may feel as though it sits at the end of the Earth, it's actually a
quaint, accommodating ranch town with surprisingly good restaurants.
10. Boulder Mountain
PayingareturnvisittoDixieNationalForest,ScenicByway12climbsacrossacoolmoun-
tain landscape endowed with silvery aspens and sweetly scented evergreens. Atop the
9,670-foot-high summit of State Rte. 12, enjoy views of the 100-mile-long Waterpocket
Fold monocline within Capitol Reef National Park to the east and south. From the elevated
vantage points of this easternmost segment of the drive, the austere beauty of Utah's
canyon country is laid bare for all to see—a sprawling monument to the power of water
carvingsandstoneawaybyerosion,whichcontinuestoredefinethisremarkablelandscape,
one grain at a time.
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