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remaining old-growth redwood forests. Along the riverside flats, great stands of ancient
trees darken the fern-carpeted forest floor; in the rolling uplands, mixed hardwoods and
gentle grasslands bloom in spring with orchids, lilies, and huckleberries. Scattered along
the route, more than 100 memorial groves bear the names of men and women who helped
to save the redwoods. The Dyerville Giant, once honored as the champion of coastal red-
woods, toppled in 1991. The sight of this 362-foot Goliath in repose is one of the park's
main attractions; with a little imagination you can hear the echo of its thundering crash to
the forest floor.
6. Humboldt Bay National Wildlife Refuge
Continuing north, the highway moves from forest to ocean, and the second-largest natural
harbor in California (after San Francisco). Though guarded by treacherous waters, Hum-
boldt Bay itself is calm and can be safely explored by tour boat or kayak. Along this
15-mile stretch of protected waters, porpoises, sea lions, and playful harbor seals reward
those with a watchful eye. Extensive wetlands and broad tidal flats make the Humboldt
BayNationalWildlifeRefugeoneofnorthernCalifornia'spremierspotsforbird-watching.
More than 200 species of waterfowl, raptors, and shorebirds reside here year-round or visit
during spring migrations. For the most rewarding glimpses of avian life, take the Hookton
Slough Trail, the Shorebird Loop Trail, or South Jetty Road.
7. Eureka
Lovers of period architecture will delight in this charming bayside city, once a rough-and-
tumble frontier town, whose whimsical name (meaning “I have found it”) recalls Califor-
nia's gold rush days. More than 10,000 Victorian homes line Eureka's picturesque streets,
with styles ranging from the understated to the opulent: Carson Mansion (now a privately
owned club) surely ranks among the most ornate homes in America.
Fronting Humboldt Bay and Eureka's busy harbor, the Old Town section is steeped in
the flavor of frontier life. Once a seedy neighborhood of bordellos and saloons, the area
was transformed by city planners into an inviting commercial district of museums, shops,
and eateries, all housed in vintage buildings.
Did you know…
When the Carson heirs couldn't find a buyer for their elaborate mansion in
Eureka in 1949, it was at risk of being demolished. Fortunately, two business-
men purchased the property for use as a men's social club. It's now called the
Ingomar Club after William Carson's favorite play, The Ingomar Barbarian.
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