Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
housing project started in the 1960s when Jess and Elva Brinkerhoff built one, then another and another, and soon it was a community project.
When the birds leave for the winter, the 700 houses are taken down, cleaned, and painted if they need it. Spring is the best time to view the blue-
birds, but you're likely to see them all summer long.
In Cleveland Pioneer Park, four miles west of town, is a delightful old
carousel
with 24 wooden horses and a musical calliope. Built at the turn
of the 20th century, the carousel has been here since 1928 and is a rare type that moves around a track. The horses are locked away in a secret
location with the exception of a two-day period each summer: during the
Alder Creek Pioneer Picnic and Rodeo
in mid-June. This is the oldest
rodeo in the state of Washington and also a cheap thrill at only $7.
For another piece of history, visit
Bluebird Inn
(121 E. Market St., 509/896-2273), said to be Washington's oldest tavern. Built in 1892, it has
a classic century-old Brunswick pool table with leather pockets (still in use), along with other local artifacts.
The
Whoop-N-Holler Ranch Museum
(East Rd. between Bickleton and Roosevelt, 509/896-2344, 10 A.M.-4 P.M. Apr.-Sept., $3) contains a
lifetime of collecting by Lawrence and Ada Whitmore. Two large buildings are filled with antique cars, as well as local historical items and family
heirlooms that tell the interesting story of the Whitmore family. This is one of the largest collections of antique and classic cars in the state.
Wineries
Get lost in the sweet desolation of the Horse Heaven Hills viticultural region. Call ahead and make an appointment with
Destiny Ridge Vineyard
(509/786-3497), estate vineyard of Prosser-based Alexandria Nicole Cellars and a major grower for dozens of other wineries. Take in the sweeping
views of the Columbia River as winemakers take you on a 2.5-hour tour ($35) of the vineyards followed by a barrel room tasting with light hors
d'oeuvres. The vineyard also recently began a “glam-camp” program. Cozy up in a 14- by 17-foot platform tent equipped with electricity and wa-
ter. Campers will be serviced with food to fire up a barbecue dinner and a breakfast in the vineyards for a one-ofa-kind getaway. Call for pricing.
Also here in the hills of the state's most remote region,
Columbia Crest Winery
(Hwy. 221, Columbia Crest Dr., Paterson, 509/875-2061,
www.columbiacrest.com
,
10 A.M.-4:30 P.M. daily) is perched just north of Paterson with its own commanding view across the Columbia River
and adjacent vineyards. Founded in 1962, and now one of Washington's largest wine producers, Columbia Crest operates much of the winery
below ground, making it easier to maintain cool temperatures throughout the year.
Crow Butte State Park
Located at the site of one of many camps used by the Lewis and Clark Expedition, this 1,312-acre park sits along a lonesome stretch of highway
halfway between the little towns of Roosevelt and Paterson. It offers boating, swimming, fishing, and waterskiing, with tent ($19) and RV sites
($24) and coin-operated showers. The campground is open daily late March-late October, plus winter weekends. Make reservations ($7 extra) at
888/226-7688 or
www.parks.wa.gov
. Crow Butte State Park covers half of an island created when the John Day Dam backed up the river to form
Lake Umatilla; the other half is within
Umatilla National Wildlife Refuge
(509/546-8300,
www.fws.gov/umatilla
)
, which straddles both sides
of the Columbia. A 0.75-mile trail leads to the top of Crow Butte (671 feet), with views across the Columbia to Mount Hood when the weather
permits; keep your eyes open for rattlesnakes. The Umatilla National Wildlife Refuge has an overlook a few miles east of Crow Butte where you
can peer across the river below while browsing a brochure describing the refuge and its abundant waterfowl.
McNary Dam
By the time you reach the McNary Dam area, the land has opened into an brushy desert of sage and grass broken only by center-pivot irrigation
systems. The Columbia River's McNary Lock and Dam, 30 miles south of Pasco in Umatilla, Oregon, creates 61-mile-long Lake Wallula, which
reaches up past the Tri-Cities to Ice Harbor Dam.
The
McNary National Wildlife Refuge,
next to McNary Dam, has a mile-long hiking trail popular with bird-watchers. Area species include
hawks, golden and bald eagles, and prairie falcons.
Information and Services
This is remote country; the combined population of Roosevelt and Paterson is a minuscule 301. As a result, services are extremely limited. If
you're coming from the west and your gas tank isn't full, be sure to take the 30-minute side trip up to Goldendale to fill up. From the west or
north, gas up in the Tri-Cities or Prosser. Failing to do so could wreck a trip, leaving you stranded for hours in the hot sun.
If you're starving, Roosevelt has a very basic roadhouse establishment,
M&T Bar & Grill
(215 Roosevelt Ave., Roosevelt, 509/384-9440).
Paterson has no restaurant, but it does have the small
Paterson Store
(48201 Paterson Ave., 509/875-2741) with basic provisions.
The Oregon side of the Columbia River offers the fastest routes east to the warmer part of the region via I-84, which runs the length of the Gorge
and then some. But there are also plenty of opportunities along this route to take it slow along impressive historic back roads and enjoy the sprays
and cascades of one of the prettiest collections of waterfalls in the lower 48.
