Eastern Ukraine - Ukraine - page 437

Zaporizhzhya
0612 / POP 815,000
So, so Soviet! For a visitor, Zaporizhzhya is essentially one avenue lined with sometimes
-imposing Stalinesque architecture. Named after its Moscow equivalent, pr Lenina runs
from Avtozaz, the birthplace of the Zaporizhets (USSR's most ridiculed car model) to the
Soviet industrial icon, Dniproges power station. Neither of which are the reason people
come here on holiday. The reason is Khortytsya - a rocky forested island where Cos-
sacks set up their all-male free-rule republic, which prospered from raids on neighbour-
ing empires and duties levied on anyone who used the river trade route. Today it is the
place to learn about Cossack culture and history, admire beautiful river vistas and spend
a day hiking or cycling.
Sights
Khortytsya Island HISTORIC SITE
The Zaporizhska Sich on Khortytsya Island was the most important cradle of Ukrainian
Cossackdom, where hetman (Cossack cheiftan) Dmytro Baida united disparate groups of
Cossacks in the construction of a sich (fort) in 1553 to 1554. The island was perfect: stra-
tegically located below the Dnipro rapids and beyond the control of Polish or Russian au-
thority. Any man could come to join the Cossack brotherhood, irrespective of social
background or indeed criminal record. But no women were allowed entry.
At the height of its power the community numbered some 20,000 fighters, under the
authority of one hetman . On the battlefield they were formidable opponents; off it, for-
midable vodka drinkers. The sich was eventually destroyed in 1775, on the order of Rus-
sian empress Catherine the Great.
Today you can visit the informative Historical Museum of Zaporizhsky Cossacks
(adult/child & student 18/9uah; 10am-7pm Tue-Sun) , which includes painted dioramas and
various Cossack weaponry and bric-a-brac excavated from the island. Nearby, a prime
spot on the cliff edge is now occupied by the Sich Reconstruction (adult/child & student
18/9uah; 9.30am-4.30pm Tue-Sun) , a wooden fortress complete with churches and about
a dozen thatched-roof khaty (dwellings), built for the epic movie Taras Bulba in 2007 .
With its network of forest paths and tarmac roads, Khortytsya Island is a haven for
hikers and cyclists. You can usually find a bicycle-rental stand (25uah per hour) at the
museum's parking lot.
Dniproges Dam HYDROPOWER STATION