Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
more beautiful. However, the neighbouring
Fountain of Tears
(1764) is more famous,
thanks to Alexander Pushkin. It's tradition that two roses - one red for love and one yel-
low for chagrin - are placed atop the fountain; Pushkin was the first to do this.
Behind the palace is the only surviving
harem
of the four that were traditionally at-
tached to the palace and belonged to the khan's wives. Across the yard you can see the
Falcon Tower
.
The
Khans' Cemetery
is beside the mosque, and way back in the grounds' southeast
corner is the
mausoleum of Dilara Bikez
, who may or may not be the Polish beauty who
bewitched the khan.
Usta
CRAFTS WORKSHOP
OFFLINE MAP
(
www.usta.crimea.ua
; vul Rechnaya 125; 10am-5pm; )
Ten years ago Crimean Tatar han-
dicrafts were on the verge of extinction, but Ayshe Osmanova resolved to rescue her
people's culture from the precipice. Retrieving old manuals from the Khans' Palace, she
taught herself the ancient art of Crimean embroidery and was soon teaching the craft to
other Tatar women returning from exile. A veteran silversmith and other artisans joined
in.
These efforts culminated in a small workshop, where you can watch artists at work and
buy embroidered shawls and tablecloths, woven rugs and hangings, pottery and filigree
jewellery. The turn-off to vul Rechnaya is just before the palace when coming from the
train station.
Uspensky Monastery
MONASTERY
Stop for a moment and say 'aah!' at possibly the cutest little church in a country abso-
lutely jam-packed with them. Part of the small Uspensky Monastery, the
gold-domed
church
has been built into the limestone rock of the surrounding hill, probably by Byz-
antine monks in the 8th or 9th century. Whitewashed monks' cells, a 'healing' fountain
and tiled mosaics cling to the hillside too. Of course, the Soviets closed the place down,
but it's been operating again since 1993.
Chufut-Kale
HISTORIC SITE
(adult/child & student 50/25uah; 9am-6pm)
Rising 200m, this long and bluff plateau
houses a honeycomb of caves and structures where people took refuge for centuries. It's
wonderful to explore, especially (gingerly) the burial chambers and casemates with large
open 'windows' in the vertiginous northern cliff. These are truly breathtaking, as is the
view into the valley below.
