Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Crimean Tatar food, it's arguably more Levantine than Central Asian. Try meat or cheese
and paprika
chir-chir
(the Karaite version of
chebureki
- fried-meat turnovers) and
yazma
(similar to the Greek
tsatsiki
). Wash it down with
buza
(a minimally alcoholic
drink made of wheat).
Yoskin Kot
JEWISH$$$
(
http://sinagoga.info/
; vul Prosmushkinykh 34/27; mains 45-70uah; 11am-9pm; )
In the
courtyard of Yegiya Kapay Synagogue, this place touts itself as a museum of Jewish
gastronomy. It's a long shot, but we loved
ghefilte fisch
(carp cutlets), while carrot
tsimes
(sweet stew) is a pure delight.
Getting There & Around
BUS
In summer buses travel to Yevpatoriya approximately every 15 minutes from the bus sta-
tion adjoining the Simferopol train station (20uah, 1½ hours).
TRAIN
In summer there are seasonal trains to Kyiv and Moscow.
TRAM & MARSHRUTKA
The bus and train stations are next to each other on vul Internatsionalnaya, northwest of
the Old Town, and you can buy a map at the stalls in front of the train station. Then take
tram 3 south down vul Frunze to the Ukraine Palace hotel and pr Lenina. Trams and
marshrutky
heading east (left away from the hotel) will take you to the Old Town and
waterfront.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Bakhchysaray
06554 / POP 27,500
More a village than a town, the former capital of Crimean Tatar khans is cradled in a nar-
row valley squeezed between two limestone escarpments. Its name means 'garden-
palace', and it's a garden that needs a lot of tilling after 50 years of neglect, when its
owners lived in exile. Now the Crimean Tatars are back and, although lacking resources,
they have already orchestrated a minor renaissance, which benefits travellers more than
anyone else.