Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
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( www.compot.ua ; vul Derybasivska 20; mains 60-120uah; 8am-11pm; ) Odesa's most cel-
ebrated restaurateur Savely Libkin conjured this place out of his childhood memories,
setting a trend for what is becoming known as Odesa cuisine. The simplest dishes are the
best - try cutlets with potato purée and water them down with one of the eponymous
kompoty, fruity drinks which housewives preserve in jars to consume in winter. The ori-
ginal Derybasivska outlet is way too crowded, so we prefer the other two - at vul Pan-
teleymonivska 70 (
345 145;
8am-11pm) by the station and at the Sea Port (
729
3449; Left wing;
8am-11pm). All serve superb French-influenced breakfasts.
Bernardazzi ITALIAN, UKRAINIAN$$$
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(Odessa Philharmonic Hall, vul Bunina 15; mains 60-160uah; 10am-last customer; ) Few
Ukrainian restaurants have truly authentic settings but the Art Nouveau dining room of
this superb Italian job, part of the eye-catching Philharmonic Hall, is the real deal. In ad-
dition to well-crafted southern and Eastern European fare, there's an award-winning wine
list, occasional live music and a secluded courtyard for summertime chilling. It's named
after the architect who designed the building.
Maman RESTAURANT$$$
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( 711 7035; vul Lanzheronivska 18; mains 70-90uah; noon-midnight; ) This Odesa mum
is a worldly woman who absorbs Asian, Middle Eastern and French influences in her
culinary adventures. But emerging before you in the shape of a stout waitress she still
forces a napkin on your lap before you blink, as if you are six years old. Her best-kept
secret is the outdoor sitting area in Palais Royal gardens, unseen from the street. The kot-
lety (meatballs) section of the menu is worth special notice.
Gogol Mogol EUROPEAN$$$
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(prov Nekrasova 2; mains 70-120uah; 9am-midnight; ) From the multihued old bicycles
and rainbow park benches bolted to the pavement outside to the jumble-sale decor of the
quirky interior, this art cafe is an unmissable chapter in the alternative city-centre story.
The short menu doubles up as a visitors book, they do a mean cappuccino and it's also a
popular evening meeting spot. However, service can be slow and brutal to lone travellers.
Rozmarin JEWISH$$$
 
 
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