Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
(
www.compot.ua
;
vul Derybasivska 20; mains 60-120uah; 8am-11pm; )
Odesa's most cel-
ebrated restaurateur Savely Libkin conjured this place out of his childhood memories,
setting a trend for what is becoming known as Odesa cuisine. The simplest dishes are the
best - try cutlets with potato purée and water them down with one of the eponymous
kompoty,
fruity drinks which housewives preserve in jars to consume in winter. The ori-
ginal Derybasivska outlet is way too crowded, so we prefer the other two - at
vul Pan-
teleymonivska 70
(
345 145;
8am-11pm)
by the station and at the
Sea Port
(
729
3449; Left wing;
8am-11pm).
All serve superb French-influenced breakfasts.
Bernardazzi
ITALIAN, UKRAINIAN$$$
(Odessa Philharmonic Hall, vul Bunina 15; mains 60-160uah; 10am-last customer; )
Few
Ukrainian restaurants have truly authentic settings but the Art Nouveau dining room of
this superb Italian job, part of the eye-catching Philharmonic Hall, is the real deal. In ad-
dition to well-crafted southern and Eastern European fare, there's an award-winning wine
list, occasional live music and a secluded courtyard for summertime chilling. It's named
after the architect who designed the building.
Maman
RESTAURANT$$$
OFFLINE MAP
( 711 7035; vul Lanzheronivska 18; mains 70-90uah; noon-midnight; )
This Odesa mum
is a worldly woman who absorbs Asian, Middle Eastern and French influences in her
culinary adventures. But emerging before you in the shape of a stout waitress she still
forces a napkin on your lap before you blink, as if you are six years old. Her best-kept
secret is the outdoor sitting area in Palais Royal gardens, unseen from the street. The
kot-
lety
(meatballs) section of the menu is worth special notice.
Gogol Mogol
EUROPEAN$$$
(prov Nekrasova 2; mains 70-120uah; 9am-midnight; )
From the multihued old bicycles
and rainbow park benches bolted to the pavement outside to the jumble-sale decor of the
quirky interior, this art cafe is an unmissable chapter in the alternative city-centre story.
The short menu doubles up as a visitors book, they do a mean cappuccino and it's also a
popular evening meeting spot. However, service can be slow and brutal to lone travellers.
Rozmarin
JEWISH$$$