Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
JEWISH CHERNIVTSI
One of Chernivtsi's most famous sons was leading 20th-century poet Paul Celan
(1920-70), who was born into a German-speaking Jewish family at
vul Saksa-
hanskoho 5
(formerly Wassilkogasse), when 'Cernăuţi' was part of Romania. His
parents died in Nazi concentration camps during WWII and Celan himself survived
one to write his most famous 1948 poem 'Todesfuge' (Death Fugue). He later
drowned himself in Paris' River Seine. There's also a
Celan monument
on vul Ho-
lovna.
ska & vul Zankovetskoyi)
was once famous for its exotic African/Middle Eastern style,
but was turned into a cinema in 1954. The
Museum of Bukovinian Jews
OFFLINE MAP
GOOGLE MAP
(
www.muzejew.org.ua
; pl Teatralna 5; admission 5uah, audio
guide 5uah; 11am-3pm Tue-Fri, to 2pm Sat, 10am-1pm Sun)
brings to life the now virtually ex-
tinct Jewish culture of Bukovina focusing on the period between 1774 and 1941.
The
former Jewish cemetery
is a melancholic jumble of leaning, overgrown
headstones. To get there, follow vul Ruska (or catch trolleybus 2) until you cross
the train line. Take the first left, vul Zelena, and continue 500m.
Eating & Drinking
Jidalnya
CANTEEN$
(vul Universytetska 1; mains 6-17uah; 8am-4pm & 4.40-8pm Mon-Sat)
Brightly painted no-
frills, no-smiles basement feeding spot with grim dinner ladies ladling out buckwheat,
pasta, fried fish and other Ukrainian staples as well as coffees and desserts. Cheap as
chips, and they have those too.
Reflection
INTERNATIONAL$$$
(vul Holovna 66; mains 40-60uah; 9am-11pm; )
Tea, porridge, English breakfasts - if
you're from Blighty you'll love this tranquil retreat with its boutique interior, impeccably
polite, English-speaking waiters and a quite un-Ukrainian atmosphere of calm and unob-
trusiveness. And if you are from just about anywhere else on the planet, you're gonna
love it too for the Caesar salad, fried porcini appetisers, Black Forest gateau, pork in
chilli sauce, pannacotta, handmade chocolates and gourmet Ukrainian dishes - treats you
