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facades containing music schools, bookshops, cafes, pizza places and some local govern-
ment offices. Retro copies of 19th-century gas lamps, freshly planted trees and lots of
benches make this the ideal venue for the evening corso and proves that Ukraine can do
'pleasant' when it puts its mind to it.
Sleeping
TIU Chernivtsi Backpackers HOSTEL$
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( 050 885 7049; tiu.hostels@yahoo.com; vul Sheptytskoho 2, apt 3; dm 100uah; ) The
English owner's insider tips, nights out, BBQs at Khotyn Fortress and summer excur-
sions into the Carpathians make Chernivtsi's only real backbacker hostel a great base.
Beds are limited so book ahead.
Hotel Premier Klub HOTEL$
( 554 698; vul Zhasmina 4D; r 200-280uah; ) This decent enough semi-budget option
has a restful location around 2.5km east of the city centre. Nine rooms have private bath-
rooms, the three more basic Ekonom classrooms share two showers and two toilets. Staff
are friendly enough, but the wi-fi could do with a boost. To get there, take trolleybus 2
along vul Ruska to the Zhytomyrska stop then walk along vul Zhasmina until you see the
hotel signposted. No breakfast.
Hotel Bukovyna HOTEL$$$
( 585 625; www.bukovyna-hotel.com ; vul Holovna 141; s/d from 295/335uah; ) Owing to
its convenient location, its relative value for money, and its large number of rooms, this
jolly giant has an understandably sizeable chunk of the local market. Rooms range from
'Economy', where the post-Soviet renovation is skin-deep, to 'Comfort', which comes
with air-con and furniture from this century. Guests in 'Economy' class are barred from
the unexpectedly good buffet breakfast spread unless they cough up 70uah.
Hotel Kaizer HOTEL$$$
( 585 275; www.kaiser-hotel.com.ua ; vul Gagarina 51; s & d 300uah; ) Kyiv, Moscow,
New York, Berlin, Rome, Warsaw, Istanbul: the world clocks ticking loudly in Kaizer's
empty lobby presage Chernivtsi's nicest rooms, which have an appealing mix of new and
retro furniture. They, and the lovely grill restaurant out the back (complete with wooden
windmill), are wildly underused though - probably because of the slightly out-of-the-
way location on the wrong side of the train station.
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