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tings, gracefully ageing pieces of furniture, chandeliers and genuine faded elegance make
this a delightfully affordable shabby-chic hideaway.
Pilgrim Hostel HOSTEL$
( 511 476, 098 606 4545; www.pilgrim-hostel.com ; vul Naberezhna 28B; dm 100uah; ) Shiny
new hostel around 1.7km northwest of the city centre. Ask staff to pick you up at the bus
or train station as it's a toughie to track down yourself.
Pid Templem HOTEL$$$
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( 595 333; www.tempel.if.ua ; vul Strachenykh 7A; s 350-600uah, d 400-650uah; ) Just a
few metres separate this new 11-room hotel from the synagogue from which it takes its
name (meaning 'Below the Temple'). Rooms are woody and display understated fabrics,
there's free tea and coffee, a cooked-to-order breakfast is served in the cosy lobby bar
and professionally minded anglophone staff are on hand. Throw in a central location,
speedy wi-fi and Jewish-themed museum displays in the public areas and you have I-F's
top place to catch some Zs.
Atrium HOTEL$$$
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( 557 879; vul Halytska 31; s 300uah, tw & d from 400uah; ) I-F's most central beds
can be found in this new and soothingly well-heeled mini-hotel looking out across pl
Rynok. Rooms are studies in leathery luxury, bathrooms dazzle and staff are keen to
show off their well-tuned English. Guests receive a 10% discount in the hotel's first-rate
restaurant and cafe.
Eating & Drinking
Manufactura HEALTH FOOD$
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(vul Mytskevicha 6; mains 25-40uah; 9am-11pm Mon-Fri, 10am-11pm Sat & Sun) Floating cloth
lamps, simple timber furniture and a jolly soundtrack (Russian techno-pop is banned)
greet you at this cosy, family-friendly place, I-F's most laid-back eatery. The menu is a
simple affair of delights you thought you'd never experience in regional Ukraine - how
about carrot and ginger soup with bacon, baked trout in white wine sauce, lentil bake,
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