Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
(
www.operapassage.com
;
pr Svobody 27)
Elite brand shopping mall housing an iStore, a tran-
quil cafe and a better-than- average supermarket in the basement.
Ravlyk
SOUVENIRS
(pr Svobody 15; 10am-6pm)
Located in the Museum of Ethnography, Arts & Crafts, the
quality of the souvenirs at Ravlyk is high, particularly the
pysanky.
Krakivsky Rynok
MARKET
(vul Bazarna)
Fans of outdoor markets will enjoy this real, bustling Soviet-style
rynok
(market) with all the fresh fruit, raw meat and cheap junk that entails.
DON'T MISS
LYCHAKIVSKE CEMETERY
Don't even think of leaving town until you've seen the amazing
Lychakivske Ce-
sion 15uah; 9am-6pm)
, only a short tram ride from the city centre. This is the Père
Lachaise of Eastern Europe, with the same sort of overgrown grounds and Gothic
aura as the famous Parisian necropolis (but containing less-well-known people).
Laid out in the late 18th century, when Austrian Emperor Josef II decreed that no
more burials could take place in churchyards, it's still the place Lviv's great and
good are laid to rest.
Eagle eyes can try to spot the graves of revered nationalist poet Ivan Franko,
Soviet gymnastics legend Viktor Chukarin, early 20th-century opera star Solomiya
Krushelnytska, and some 2000 Poles who died fighting Ukrainians and Bolsheviks
from 1918 to 1920. There's also a memorial to the Ukrainian insurgent army (UPA),
who fought for independence against both the Nazis and Soviets. But ultimately
you needn't recognise a single soul to be moved by the mournful photos of loved
ones, ornate tombstones and floral tributes.
A good strategy is to combine a trip to the cemetery and the Museum of Folk Ar-
chitecture & Life. The cemetery is one stop past the stop for the open-air museum
on tram 7.
Information
