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have inadvertently wandered. Having barred your way for a few minutes, he eventually
opens the door to a fancy beamed restaurant full of Masonic symbols and portraits of by-
gone masons. The next shock is the menu - advertised as Galicia's most expensive res-
taurant, prices are 10 times higher than normal…so make sure you pick up a 90% dis-
count card at Dim Lehend or Livy Bereh beforehand. The food, by the way, is great and
the beer and kvas (gingery, beer-like soft drink) come in crystal vases. The toilet is a
candlelit Masonic throne. Ukraine's weirdest restaurant experience? Probably.
Veronika INTERNATIONAL$$$
$$$
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP
(pr Shevchenka 21; mains 70-250uah; 9am-11pm) This classy basement restaurant plates
up an ambitiously multicultural menu of fish, beef steaks, shashlyk, crêpes, varenyky
(Ukrainian dumplings) and pizzas in a cool, tranquil atmosphere. In addition there's a
street-level konditorei (central European cake shop and cafe), with criminally delicious
desserts.
LEOPOLD VON SACHER-MASOCH
Local historians regularly lock horns on the issue of where the world's original
'masochist' was born. Some claim he came into the world at vul Kopernyka 22 op-
posite the Pototsky Palace, others assert he must have first seen light of day in a
house where the Grand Hotel now stands. Wherever the exact location may have
been, the author of Venus in Furswas definitely born in Lviv in 1835, although he
spent most of his subsequent 60 years begging to be whipped in Austria, Germany
and Italy.
If you'd like to experience a light-hearted version of some of Masoch's practices,
the waitresses at the Masoch Cafe OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP ( vul Serbska 7;
noon-4am) will handcuff and whip you before or after a meal selected from the menu
of aphrodisiacs. A bronze of Masoch himself greets 'diners' at the door.
Drinking & Nightlife
Be careful: Lviv has so many lovely cafes luring you in with olde-worlde charm and the
scent of arabica that disciples of the bean risk over-caffeination. Lviv also has a fine and
growing selection of watering holes.
Kabinet Cafe CAFE
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