Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
an oft-told legend, when the Turkish Sultan Osman arrived to attack the town in 1621, he
asked one of his generals, 'Who has built such a mighty town?' 'Allah', came the reply,
to which the Sultan responded, 'Then let Allah himself conquer it', and bid a hasty re-
treat.
Split-personalitied K-P is really a tale of two cities - the noisy and slightly chaotic
Soviet New Town, where most of the hotels are located, and the quieter Old Town, where
all of the sights are gathered. Until recently the latter sometimes gave the impression of
having been abandoned by the townsfolk c 1950 for the Soviet utopia across the river,
but of late the locals have realised there might be money to be made from people called
tourists visiting old stuff and the historical quarter has begun to receive a facelift (not al-
ways with desirable results). Another worrying phenomenon are the enormous walled
dachi
(cottages) being built by wealthy individuals slap-bang in the centre of town.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
QUEEN OF THE CASTLE
Iryna Pustynnikova is Ukraine's original castle hunter. She runs the website
ht-
tp://castles.com.ua
and doles out castle-hopping itineraries to anybody who asks.
We caught up with Iryna in her hometown, Kamyanets-Podilsky, and asked her to
pick the top 10 lesser-known castles in Ukraine.
Czerwonogrod
'It's simply…wow! One hundred years ago the guidebooks called it
the most beautiful manor in Poland. For me it's the most beautiful place in the
whole country.' From the 14th to 19th centuries; near Nyrkiv, 50km north of Cherni-
vtsi.
Sydoriv Castle
'It looks like an ocean liner sailing through a sea of maize and other
vegetables.' Built in the 17th century; near Husyatyn, 60km northwest of
Kamyanets-Podilsky.
Kudryntsi Castle
'The landscapes are unbelievable, the ruins are very scenic and
vivid, and tourists are rare birds here.' Early 17th century; 22km west of
Kamyanets-Podilsky.
Nevytske Castle
'Legend has it this very picturesque castle served as a shelter for
Uzhhorod's girls - nevestais the local word for “girl”.' Built in the 16th century;
12km north of Uzhhorod.
Hubkiv Castle
(Rivne oblast) 'It rises 32m over an area known as “Switzerland on
the Sluch River”. The views these castle ruins command are simply breathtaking.
The fresh air that wafts forth from the surrounding forests inebriates the visitor like
a good wine, and heals as well as any medicine.' From the 15th to 16th centuries.
