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the cheapest rooms are clean and comfortable, and (in places skin-deep) renovation ef-
forts are in evidence throughout. High ceilings and extras such as a minibar and in-room
phones make this place feel decidedly un-Soviet.
Hotel Park HOTEL$$$
( 675 844; www.da-lucio.com ; vul Hrushevskoho 28; d from 500uah; ) While Vinnytsya's
hotel scene is in flux, the 15 rooms at this small hotel above a pizza place represent the
best price-to-quality ratio. Some of the decor is a touch over the top (giraffe-print car-
pets, lime-green curtains) but everything is well maintained and spotless. Somewhat sur-
prisingly, rates include breakfast. Staff speak little English.
Podillya HOTEL$$$
( 592 233; www.vintur.com.ua ; vul Pushkina 4; s/d from 250/500uah; ) The Podillya has
been threatening 'remont' ( modernisation ) for years but so far has done very little actu-
al de-Sovietisation of its rooms. The 4th floor has been renovated but is overpriced so go
for the essentially USSR-era rooms anywhere else, survivable for a night or two. Full and
half board available, and a decent tour agency lurks somewhere in the building.
Ukraina Hotel HOTEL$$$
$$$
(vul Kozytskoho 36) Occupying an opulent 19th-century Art Nouveau building in a prime
location at the maydan Nezalezhnosti end of vul Kozytskoho, this grand old dame was
undergoing a comprehensive refit at the time of research. It's set to reopen as sorely
needed luxury-end lodgings by the time you read this. When it does, it will be the best
place to stay between Kyiv and Lviv.
Eating
For a city of this size there are surprisingly few places to eat in the centre. The highly
visible 'golden arches' just off maydan Nezalezhnosti are a blessing here, even if you
ain't lovin' it.
Masay Mara CAFE$
(vul Hrushevskoho 70; mains 15-35uah; 9am-11pm Mon-Fri, 10am-11pm Sat & Sun) One of a
handful of places along vul Hrushevskoho, this funky coffeehouse at the park gates has
an African theme (think cave drawings and lots of rough-hewn wood), but the menu of
light meals is firmly Eurasian. The outdoor seating draws a crowd in the evenings, as
does the real fire in winter.
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