Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
where another 18,000 Jews died, is a further 1km towards Khmelnytsky on the left
side of the highway. At both sites the Nazis shot their victims in the back of the
head and let their slumped bodies fall into pre-dug pits.
Sleeping
Berdychiv is best visited as a day trip from, or en route to, Vinnytsya or Zhytomyr. If you
do want to stay the night there's only one place to bed down, so book ahead if you can.
Hotel Mirabella
HOTEL$
( 409 70; vul Lenina 20; r standard/deluxe 250/350uah)
Well located within walking dis-
tance of the Jewish Cemetery, Berdychiv's sole lodgings boast unimaginative rooms with
satellite TV hook-up and fridge, an erratic hot-water supply but quite helpful staff.
Getting There & Away
Several buses an hour head this way from Zhytomyr (15uah, one hour), terminating at
Berdychiv's Central bus station. However, the station is a long way from anywhere so
ask to be dropped off in the town centre. There are buses or
marshrutky
at least every
hour to Vinnytsya (31uah, two hours) and Kyiv (60uah, 3½ hours).
PODILLYA
Podillya is the borderland within the country whose name means 'borderland'. Podillya
is the bridge between the stolid, Russia-leaning east and the pro-European south. A
swing district politically, topographically it's more predictable: flat and agricultural. The
iconic image of bright blue sky over vast wheat field (possibly the inspiration for the col-
ours of the Ukrainian flag) is practically inescapable here. But Podillya is not all farms
and flatlands. Castle hunters will find business to attend to in the region's southern half,
particularly in the 'rock island' city of Kamyanets-Podilsky. And there are a handful of
unusual sites, including a Hitler bunker and a missile museum, scattered about the region
for those with time, stamina and patience to explore.
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Uman
