Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
painless self-service canteen just across from the mounted tank on pl Peremohy. Serves
all the usual favourites from across the ex-USSR, plus decent coffees and beers.
Schultz
BEER HALL$$$
(
www.schulz.ua
; vul Peremohy 1; mains 40-110uah; 11am-last customer)
This underground
Ukrainian interpretation of a Czech microbrewery restaurant feels more like an American
bar abutting a subterranean chemical plant (no romantic copper brewing vats here). But
the service is pleasant, the meat-heavy menu tasty and the commendable wheat beer and
dark ale, both brewed on the premises, go down a treat on scorching days.
Getting There & Away
The simplest way to make Zhytomyr a day trip from Kyiv is to take a (virtually) nonstop
marshrutka
(fixed-route minibus; 40uah, 1½ hours) from outside the main train station.
These arrive at and depart from Zhytomyr's bus station, a short trolleybus ride from the
city centre. Other
marshrutky
leave from Kyiv's Zhytomyrska metro station (near the
western end of the red line) and Dachna bus station but are harder to track down. Most
other public buses (frequent) and trains (sporadic) to and from Kyiv take much longer
(three to four hours). Heading back to Kyiv,
marshrutky
leave on a rolling basis from
right in front of the bus-station building.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Berdychiv
04143 / POP 86,200
You'd never guess today that this sleepy town on the southern edge of Polissya was once
an important intellectual centre and hotbed of Jewish culture. At the turn of the 19th cen-
tury, Berdychiv's population was more than 80% Jewish. The Nazis took care of that,
murdering just about every one of the city's 39,000 Jews and burying them in mass
graves on the town's outskirts. These days Berdychiv's Jewish community numbers only
several hundred, but the city remains an important pilgrimage site for followers of
revered Hasidic master Levi Yitzhak (1740-1810), who is buried in the town's remark-
able Jewish cemetery.
The website
www.berdichev.org
is a good resource for information on the town.
Sights
