Kyiv - Ukraine - page 93

Towering over the cathedral is the 96.5m-tall Great Bell Tower OFFLINE MAP
GOOGLE MAP . Climbing the 174 steps to the top is an essential experience; however,
the tower was shut down for renovations in 2005 and was still closed for visitors at the
time of research.
Beneath the Great Bell Tower on the south side, the Museum of Microminiature
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP (admission 20uah; 9am-1.30pm & 2.30-6pm Wed-Mon)
provides something even for atheists within this holiest of holies - and, boy, is it popular!
Possibly the most orderly queues in unruly Kyiv forms in front of Russian artist Nikolai
Siadristy's tiny creations. The world's smallest book (with some verses of Shevchenko),
a balalaika with strings one-fortieth the width of a human hair and a flea fitted with
golden horseshoes are just some of his works of whimsy. Each is so small that micro-
scopes are needed to view them, but you can occupy yourself with the brief English ex-
planations while you wait.
The cluster of buildings just south of the Assumption Cathedral includes the excellent
Museum of Ukrainian Folk & Decorative Arts OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP (admis-
sion 20uah; 10am-6pm Mon, Wed & Thu, to 8pm Fri & Sat) , which boasts a vast collection of
clothes, carpets, jewellery, ceramics and other beautiful items produced by generations of
Ukrainian craftsmen. Nearby is the Refectory Church of St Antony & St Feodosy ,
sporting the monastery's most famous gold-striped dome (1885-1905). The main domed
space is slightly reminiscent of Istanbul's Hagia Sophia, with its ring of small narrow
windows along the base of the drum. The interior is beautifully painted with biblical
scenes, saints and Art Nouveau patterns. The generously frescoed refectory attached to
the church is a sight in itself.
The Historical Treasures Museum OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP (admission 30uah;
10am-4.45pm Tue-Sun) , behind the Dormition Cathedral, has an astounding collection
of precious stones and metal found or made in Ukraine. The highlight is the fabulous
hoard of gold jewellery worked for the Scythians by Greek Black Sea colonists. Much of
the treasures come from two 4th-century BC burial mounds: the Tolstaya grave in the
Dnipropetrovsk region and the Gaimana grave in the Zaporizhzhya region.
To get to the lower lavra from the upper lavra, find the path behind the Refectory
Church of St Antony & St Feodosy and head downhill under the flying buttress.
Upper Lavra
The entrance to the Nearer Caves ( 8.30am-4.30pm) is inside the Church of the Rais-
ing of the Cross (1700). Before the stairs head downwards, there's a table selling
candles (3uah) to light your way through the dark passages. The use of cameras is forbid-
den in the caves.