Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
icalrainforests.RaftingtripsoncemadetheirwaydowntheUsumacinta,visitingYaxchilán
(Mexico) and the Guatemalan site of Piedras Negras, but an increase in violent armed rob-
beries has meant their indefinite suspension. The Usumacinta is indeed a wild frontier and
is an active waterway for drug smuggling, contraband logging, and boats carrying illegal
immigrants on their journey north. An on-again, off-again Mexican dam project has been
vehemently opposed by environmentalists and, until 1996, Guatemalan rebels camped out
in the jungle. The project would reportedly flood Piedras Negras, Yaxchilán, and several
smaller sites along the Usumacinta. The project appears to have been called off, for the
time being.
The Pasión, an Usumacinta tributary, meanders through southern Petén. Much like the
larger Usumacinta, its watershed was extremely important in Mayan times. Several Mayan
sites lie near the river. In the arid southeastern part of the country, the Río Motagua con-
nects the highlands to the Caribbean Sea and forms a dry river valley of agricultural im-
portance since Mayan times. Other notable rivers include the Río San Pedro, also in Petén;
theVerapaces-areaRíoCahabón,whichhasexcellentwhite-waterrunsyear-round;andthe
Río Dulce, a lazy tropical river connecting Lake Izabal to the Caribbean.
Lakes and Lagoons
Guatemalahasseverallakesnoteworthyfortheirsize,recreationalopportunities,andsheer
natural beauty. Foremost among these is highland Lake Atitlán, called “the most beauti-
ful lake in the world” by author Aldous Huxley during his travels through the region. The
lake's spectacular mountain scenery is punctuated by the sentinel presence of three tower-
ing volcanoes along its southern shores. Near Guatemala City, Lake Amatitlán has been
a weekend getaway for city dwellers since time immemorial but industrial pollution has
spoiled the once-clear waters. Still, Guatemalans have taken on the ominous task of res-
cuing its waters with foreign help and the lake may soon be safe again for swimming. An
aerial tram operating on surrounding hillsides has recently reopened the area to visitors,
making a side trip to this tranquil spot increasingly alluring for wonderful views of the
rugged mountain terrain. The largest of Guatemala's lakes, Lake Izabal, is a tropical lake
connected to the Caribbean by the Río Dulce. The Río Polochic delta, on Izabal's south-
western shore,isbecoming increasingly popularasabird-watcher'sparadise. Petén'sLake
Petén Itzá is also a tropical flatland lake with the added bonus of tropical forests, crystal-
clear waters, and a variety of accommodations from which to enjoy all of these. As much
of Petén is limestone, the lake's waters have a distinct turquoise color near the lakeshores
and from the air look very much like those of the Mexican Caribbean. Farther east toward
Belize is Yaxhá Lagoon, near the ruins of the same name. The lagoon, and its aggressive
crocodiles, was made famous by the Survivor Guatemala television series filmed here in
the summer of 2005.
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