Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
from an area known as Arroyo Macabilero in June 2006 ended with a gunfight between
heavily armed men and park rangers. Four park rangers were taken captive but were re-
leased a few days later unharmed.
Inthesummerof2006,authoritieswereattemptingtoregaincontroloftheareainajoint
venture between Defensores de la Naturaleza and governmental security forces. Shortly
thereafter,inOctober2006,thepresswidelyreportedtheretakingofSierradelLacanónby
large numbers of Guatemalan security forces, who ousted about 80 families living at Ar-
royo Macabilero in a peaceful expropriation overseen and verified by human rights organ-
izations. It remains to be seen if control of this wild frontier can be retained and if ranger
stations or other tourist infrastructure will be rebuilt. For now, it is advisable to stay out of
this park, with the possible exception of visits to Yaxchilán, across the Usumacinta River
inMexico,orviamotorboattoPiedrasNegras.Inanycase,checkonthesituationwithone
of the recommended Flores outfitters before heading out to these parts, as the situation can
vastly improve or degenerate in a matter of weeks.
If the security situation is ever cleared up, Sierra del Lacandón promises to be one of
the Maya Biosphere's most exquisite offerings because of the diversity of the terrain and
corresponding biological significance. It is an absolutely beautiful park despite its cur-
rent woes. Piedras Negras is a fascinating Mayan city and the jungle-lined banks of the
Usumacinta offer an incredible river adventure. Having flown over much of the reserve, I
can personally attest to the relatively well-preserved state of its mountain rainforests.
El Naranjo
This rough-and-tumble frontier town, accessible by bus from Santa Elena, is a jumping-off
point for those heading west to Mexico via an unreliable boat transport down the Río San
Pedro to La Palma. A better option into Mexico is to cross the Río Usumacinta via Bethel,
arriving in Frontera Corozal.
Bethel
This small, pleasant settlement serves as a much better option for onward travel to Mexico
or down the Río Usumacinta. There is an immigration office here, lodging, and several
simple
comedores.
The best place to stay is at the community-run
Posada Maya
(tel.
7861-1799 or 7861-1800, $20 d) with simple rooms in thatched-roof bungalows. The res-
taurant here serves decent meals in a pleasant
palapa
building.
There is a small Mayan site here about 1.5 kilometers from the village, though its most
impressive feature is probably the view of the river from a lookout about 20 minutes' walk
from the site's core.
Boats leave Bethel downstream for Frontera Corozal, Yaxchilán, and Piedras Negras.
FivedailybusesandthreedailyminibusesleavetheSantaElenabusdepotforthe3-4hour
ride to Bethel. The last of these departs at 1:30 P.M.
