PETÉN - Guatemala - page 483

Sayaxché is the jumping off point to a number of nearby Mayan ruins, though it also has
a reputation as fast becoming a narco-hideaway. The remote stretches of river still har-
bor some semblance of wildlife, though ongoing deforestation in these parts makes it feel
somewhat less wild than other, better-preserved parts of Petén department.
SAYAXCHÉ
Sayaxché, on the southern shore of Río La Pasión, is the natural gateway for trips to the
Mayansitesof Ceibal andthearchaeological wondershiddenamidthelagoonsandforests
of the Petexbatún Wildlife Refuge. It is a rough-and-tumble kind of town and reports of
shoot-outs in its streets are not uncommon, though security forces were reported to have
gotten at least a partial hold on the situation in late 2006. Still, you may want to limit your
time here to that required to cross the Río La Pasión on your way south to the Verapaces
or to organize a trip to one of the nearby attractions. In addition to serving as an important
waterway for trade in Mayan times, the river and surrounding town nowadays serve as a
transshipmentpointforthelocalcocainecartelssaidtooperateinthisregionforsometime
now. Although they don't tend to get involved with tourists, it certainly adds to the remote
lawless frontier atmosphere that seems to permeate this town.
While the Petexbatún region's sites are impressive and the jungle scenery in these parts
alluring, you may want to inquire with travel agencies in Flores before heading out here.
Robberies were reported for some time at Ceibal, though locals say the group responsible
wascaughtsometimeago,andtherearenorecentrobberiestoreport.Ifyouhaveplentyof
time to explore Petén, it might be worth visiting here. Otherwise, your time might be best
spent exploring some equally beautiful but safer sites elsewhere. If it's remote wilderness
you seek, there are certainly other areas you can find to explore.
Accommodations and Food
On the north bank of the river, before crossing on the ferry when coming from Flores, is
Café del Río (tel. [phone], all meals daily). With sweeping views from its perch above
the river, it is a great choice for its location away from the considerably busier atmosphere
on the other side. Should you need to stay here, your best bet is Hotel Guayacán (tel.
7926-6111) on the southern bank of the river. It has decent rooms with wooden beds and
tiled floors going for $17 d with fan on the first floor or $20 d with air-conditioning on the
secondfloor.Italsohasagoodrestaurant withaterrace overlookingtheRíoLaPasiónand
main dishes costing about $5. One block up the street and three blocks to the right is Hotel
Petexbatún (tel. [phone]), where rooms with fan and TV cost $10 or $15 with private
bath. On the second street to the left as you come from the docks, El Botanero features