LAS VERAPACES - Guatemala - page 457

There is a bus departing daily for Poptún at 3 A.M. ($4), and hourly buses for Cobán
between 4 A.M. and 4 P.M.
Las Conchas Pools
Las Casas's sole nearby attraction is Las Conchas, a series of limestone pools and water-
falls on the Río Chiyú, 50 kilometers east toward Izabal. The pools are rather large and
great for swimming, though the water is not of the sweet emerald color found at Semuc
Champey. There is a small picnic area.
The falls' remote location means you may find yourself needing to spend the night
in the area. Thanks to a recent addition to the local hotel offerings, you can combine
a trip to the waterfalls with a stay at a nearby jungle camp. Oasis Chiyú
( www.naturetoursguatemala.com ) , a 10-hectare (25-acre) working farm and lodge owned
by a transplanted American, is beautifully situated at the confluence of two jungle rivers.
Thelodgerunsonanall-inclusiveplan($30perpersonperdaywithatwo-nightminimum)
andincludesthreesquaremealsdaily,accommodationsinthemainhouseorinnearbybun-
galows, guided hikes, and transportation. The gorgeous views of the surrounding jungle,
rivers,andwaterfallsaloneareworththepriceofadmission.Mealsarepreparedonawood
burning stove using fresh ingredients and include vegetarian specialties such as fried rice,
pastas,curries,hummus,sandwiches,andsalads.Bikesandkayaksareavailabletoexplore
the surroundings, and guided hikes can take you to nearby waterfalls, mysterious caves,
sultry jungles, and cool rivers. This is your chance to really become one with nature: no
phones, fax, e-mail, or electricity—truly an oasis of tranquility.
Chahal
The closest settlement near Las Conchas is Chahal, which is fairly unremarkable but non-
etheless offers at least one hotel worthy of mention. Hotel Villa Santa Elena (Franja
Transversal del Norte Km. 365, tel. [phone], [e-mail], $20 d) offers basic,
clean rooms with hot water, plastic furniture, and good beds housed in a neocolonial build-
ing built around a patio. The restaurant here also serves some very decent food.
Raxrujá
An alternative base for exploring the Candelaria caves and the nearby ruins of Cancuén
is the small town of Raxrujá, a few kilometers east of the “Cruce del Pato” Junction.
Among the basic accommodations found here are Hotel Cancuén (tel. [phone],
www.cuevaslosnacimientos.com ) ,ontheedgeoftown,withbasicroomsfor$10dormore
modern tiled-floor rooms with TV, air-conditioning, and private bath for $15 d. The Res-
taurante Tu Casa next door serves good meals and is well staffed.
Another dining option is found just outside of town. El Bistro Francés (tel. [phone],
noon-4P.M.Sat.-Sun.andholidays,$4-6)isrunbythesameFrenchownersasCandelaria