LAS VERAPACES - Guatemala - page 434

BIOTOPO MARIO DARY RIVERA
Also known as the Quetzal Biotope ($3.50, 7 A.M.-4 P.M. daily), this 1,044-hectare pro-
tected area is one of several biotopes administered by University of San Carlos's Center
for Conservation Studies (CECON) and is conveniently situated along Highway CA-14
at Km. 160.5, about an hour from Cobán. Though quetzal birds are easier to spot in Si-
erra de Las Minas, the elusive creatures are said to frequent the yard of some local eating
establishments (Biotopín Restaurant and Ranchitos del Quetzal), where they like to feast
on the fruits of the aguacatillo tree. The Quetzal Biotope's convenient roadside location
means that if you're on your way to or from Cobán, you should at least stop in for a look.
You might just get lucky and see one of Guatemala's most beloved national symbols, with
its exotic green plumage, long tail feathers, and bright red breast. Your best chances are
between February and September. Plan on being up early if you want to see them.
Exploring the Park
Only a small part of the reserve is open to visitors, though there is plenty to keep you busy.
There are two trails beginning at the visitors center, winding their way through the exuber-
ant vegetation. The shorter Los Helechos (The Ferns) trail is two kilometers long, while
Los Musgos (The Mosses) trail is twice as long. While you may or may not see a quetzal
bird, you'll certainly see a dense growth of epiphytes, mosses, ferns, and orchids along the
well-maintained trails. Both trails pass by some nice waterfalls where you can swim.
See MARIO DARY RIVERA
Trail maps are available for $0.75 at the visitors center, where there is also an exhibit. A
small shop sells snacks and drinks and there are camping and barbecue areas. Check with
the guards before camping, as it may or may not be allowed at the time of your visit.
Accommodations and Food
A number of comfortable lodgings are alongside the road in the vicinity of the biotope.
Thefirstplaceyou'llfind,comingfromCobán,is Ranchitos del Quetzal (tel.[phone]),
whereeightbasicroomsinthatched-roofhutsorconcretestructureswithelectrichot-water
heater cost $7 per person. The restaurant here serves basic, inexpensive meals ($1.50-4)
and there is a trail to a waterfall and swimming hole 40 minutes away. Quetzals are
sometimes seen here. Across the street from the biotope is Restaurante Biotopín (tel.
5202-0528 or 2473-9017, 7 A.M.-5 P.M. Fri.-Sun.), serving snacks, barbecued meats,
burgers, hot dogs, and other picnic fare in an open-air dining room facing the woods.
Farther along the highway at Km. 158.5 is Hotel y Restaurante Ram Tzul (tel.
5908-4066,[e-mail], www.m-y-c.com.ar/ramtzul , $40d),with comfortable
accommodations in wooden cabins, all with private bath. A large restaurant tastefully con-
structed using 3,500 bamboo shoots serves good food three meals a day. The lodge is
on a private 150-hectare forest preserve. A 45-minute hike leads to a pretty waterfall.