LAS VERAPACES - Guatemala - page 429

With the expulsion of the Dominican friars, San Geronimo became state property and
waslaterauctionedoff.Itwaseventuallyabandonedin1893buthasnowregainedsomeof
its former splendor.
Accommodations and Food
Complementing the town's lovely provincial atmosphere are some nice hotels, should you
wish to stay here. Hotel Hacienda Real del Trapiche (tel. [phone], $20 d) is right at
the entrance to town and has 10 pleasant rooms with good beds, private hot-water bath,
and cable TV. There is a restaurant with excellent home-cooked meals. Another excellent
option is the Hotel Posada de los Frayles (tel. [phone], $28 d), with 10 comfort-
able rooms in a beautiful colonial-style building set among nicely landscaped gardens with
tropicalflowersandplants.Roomshaveprivatehot-waterbathroom,comfortablebeds,and
cable TV. There's a swimming pool and the restaurant serves decent meals for breakfast,
lunch, and dinner.
SALAMÁ TO CUBULCO
West from Salamá are some interesting villages known for their weavings and annual fies-
tas. The first of these is San Miguel Chicaj, where the annual fiesta is held September
25-29.
To the west along a wonderfully scenic road, the next town over is Rabinal, founded in
1537byFrayBartolomédelasCasas.Rabinalisknownforthequalityofitspotteryandits
citrus products as well as for its observance of pre-Columbian traditions, dance, and folk-
lore. The annual fiesta is held January 19-25 and it is by all means dramatic. The highlight
is a dance performed on January 23 known as the Rabinal Achi,' which reenacts a battle
between the Achi' and Quiché tribes.
The small Museo Comunitario Rabinal Achi' (4a Avenida and 2a Calle Zona 3, 8:30
A.M.-5 P.M. Mon.-Sat.) features exhibits on the history and culture of the Achi' Mayans
livinginthisarea.Themostinterestingexhibitpertainstotheeffectsofthecivilwar,asthe
region was particularly hard-hit during the violence. Several mass graves dot the hillsides
around Rabinal and about 4,400 victims have been exhumed and reburied in the past few
years.
There are a few basic accommodations here. Try Posada San Pablo (3a Avenida 1-50
Zona 1, tel. [phone], $7-12 d), where some of the clean rooms have private bath. The
Hospedaje Caballeros (1a Calle 4-02) is another good alternative. Also on 1a Calle is the
Gran Hotel Rabinal Achi, harboring large rooms with private bath and a small eatery.
As for services, there is a Banrural on 1a Calle and 3a Avenida, which can exchange
your cash dollars. There are hourly buses to Salamá and five daily frequencies to Guatem-
ala City via La Cumbre.