Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
agement by a private conservation group translates into more-than-adequate facilities for
tourism and scientific investigation. They afford great opportunities to explore some of
Guatemala's most remote expanses with relative ease from a comfortable base.
If you want to explore either of these remote wilderness parks from here, call or stop by
Defensores'sofficeinElEstor,oneblockfromthepark.Defensoresrunsthehighlyrecom-
mended
Selempím Biological Station,
near its namesake community and river midway
between both parks, where there are comfortable accommodations in screened-in private
wooden cabins or dorms ($15 per person), shared bathrooms with showers, a hammock
lounge, research facilities, and solar power. Meals can be arranged through the local com-
munity ($3-5) or you can bring your own food and use the station's cooking facilities ($2).
Guides ($7 per group) can take you around by canoe or kayak through various canals for
wildlife-viewing or land-based explorations along two nature trails. One of these offers a
fantastic lookout point from where you can see the river's delta and fully appreciate the
scale of the surrounding wilderness. Hidden in the pockmarked karst landscape of this
rugged terrain are a number of sinkholes in addition to a cave near the biological station,
where you can view some interesting stalactites and stalagmites.
To get here, your best option is to take one of the community-run boat transfer services
($8, 1.25 hours) leaving from El Estor at 11 A.M. on Mondays, Wednesdays, and
Saturdays. The return trip leaves Selempím at 7 A.M. on the same days. Or you could hire
a private boat transfer by inquiring in El Estor at Defensores's office. The typical rate is
about $100 round-trip. The folks at Hugo's Restaurant or Hotel Vista del Lago might be
able to hook you up with a local boatman for a little less. Admission to the park is $5.
Things have gotten substantially quieter at the lake's main south-shore town, which once
provided access to El Estor by way of a ferry boat but which has taken a backseat now
that there's a road to El Estor from Río Dulce. The main attraction here is the fantastic
Denny's Beach
(tel.5398-0908,
www.dennysbeach.com
)
,alakesideresortfourkilometers
eastoftown,whichhasgrownsubstantially fromitshumblebeginningsasarestaurantand
a few simple cabanas. A wide range of accommodations includes dorms ($7 per person),
rustic cabanas ($16-20 d, with shared or private bathroom), beach-house rooms ($20-27 d,
with shared/private bath and air-conditioning), beachfront cabanas ($40-67 d, with private
bath, air-conditioning, and hot-water showers) or newly added luxurious villas with their
ownpatiosandlovelylakesideviews($80-100d).Therestaurantherehasavariedmenuin
the $3-11 range for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, including excellent seafood, pastas, sand-
wiches,nachos,quesadillas,andcreativeshrimpburritos.There'safullystockedbeachside
bar where you can hang out and meet other travelers. The available activities are as var-
