Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
There are hourly buses and pickups from the village of Ipala, on the north side of the
volcano, to Agua Blanca. Minibuses run between Chiquimula and Ipala every half hour.
You can camp at the lake or stay in a basic
hospedaje
in Ipala.
The town of Esquipulas is popular with travelers from other parts of Central America who
come here on a pilgrimage to see the miraculous Black Christ. Although the large white
basilica is somewhat impressive, there is really little else of interest for the non-Central
American traveler. If you really wish to see the Black Christ, by all means do so, but your
time in Guatemala is probably best spent elsewhere. Nearby, there are a few natural at-
tractions, but little that's been developed for tourism as in the Verapaces or Izabal regions.
Esquipulas's other main claim to fame is the 1987 signing of an accord between area lead-
ers outlining the establishment of peace processes to end the civil wars in El Salvador and
Guatemala.
Basilica
You'll see the large white church as soon as you enter the proximity of Esquipulas, as it
dominates the view of town as you approach it from the road. Once you're in town, the
basilica can be reached by crossing a large, pleasant palm-lined park leading to a flight
of steps. A side entrance leads to the
Black Christ
(6 A.M.-7 P.M. daily), where you
can shuffle into the line and follow pilgrims to a glass case behind the church altar for a
brief glimpse. The height of veneration occurs during an annual festival on January 15,
with weekends and religious holidays also popular. You may have the place all to yourself
during the week, contrasting sharply with the melee seen on weekends. Inside the church
is the usual atmosphere of hushed reverence and incense found throughout Guatemala's
churches. For a real treat, check out the vending stalls near the church where you'll find a
motley assortment of religious kitsch.
Cueva de las Minas
This cave complex lies about 300 meters south of the turnoff into town along the road
heading to Honduras. It's a further 500 meters from the entrance gate to the complex (6:30
A.M.-4 P.M. daily). There are a fifty-meter-deep cave and the Río El Milagro, which folks
say holds miraculous healing powers. Bring your own flashlight.
