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some of the Mayan world's finest stelae, carved monuments depicting historical events in
the life of Mayan dynasties. Copán's museum is among the finest attractions in the May-
an world, along with its restored temple pyramids, palaces, hieroglyphic stairway, and ball
court. The surrounding mountainous countryside is also becoming increasingly popular
with travelers exploring coffee farms, a jungle bird park, and hot springs. Also near the
border, on the Guatemalan side, is the town of Esquipulas, a popular pilgrimage site with
CentralAmericantouristsforitsBlackChrist,believedtohavemiraculoushealingpowers.
Radically different from the department of Izabal, Guatemala's other eastern depart-
ments comprising the region of El Oriente are semiarid and populated by ladino cowboys,
attracting few international travelers. A standout in this area is the odd crater lake atop the
Ipala Volcano, near the town of Chiquimula.
CLIMATE
The overall climate in these parts is warm, even in the Eastern Highlands, which lack
the dramatic altitude of their western counterparts. The Motagua Valley is arid, whereas
the Izabal region is warm and humid year-round. During the warmest months of April
and May, the temperature and humidity can seem unbearable, though coastal regions get
a lightly refreshing sea breeze that helps alleviate some of the tropical swelter. Temperat-
ures can hover round 100°F during this time of year. At other times, it hovers somewhere
between 85°F and 95°F. Izabal is particularly rainy and is sometimes battered by storms or
the occasional hurricane.
PLANNING YOUR TIME
Copáncanbedoneinadayortwo,whileQuiriguárequiresonlyacoupleofhoursatmost.
It makes a good stop on the way to Puerto Barrios. If you really want to see Ipala Vol-
cano and crater lake, you can probably do it as a day trip from Chiquimula or Esquipulas. I
would recommend most foreign visitors give the latter town a miss, unless you really want
toseetheBlackChriststatuehousedinthetown'sbasilica.Thereisplentytoseeanddoon
the Caribbean Coast. Puerto Barrios is not the most pleasant town, but there's no need to
stay here as there are now better alternatives for exploring the Cerro San Gil Reserve and
Río Las Escobas across Bahía de Amatique in Santo Tomás de Castilla. It's worth at least
a half day for exploring, though you could easily spend the night in a comfortable lodge or
takeafewdaystocrosstheruggedMontañasdelMicotoRíoDulcefortheultimatejungle
adventure. Puerto Barrios merits an hour or two at best as a transit point to Lívingston or
Río Dulce.
A few days in Lívingston will allow you time to explore nearby waterfalls, beaches, and
rainforests. For a real treat, sail the Caribbean to the outlying Belize cayes for a week or
 
 
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