Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
OneofthegreatGuatemalatravelersexplainsittomethisway:“TheGuatem-
ala I met 20 years ago was a slow, enchanting melody. Guatemala today is the
same melody; it is now just being played on fast-forward.”
After living in and writing about Central America for almost 10 years, I still
encourage travelers to go to the Guatemala highland villages: Look, explore,
listen, absorb - no longer for their simple charms, but as a fascinating window
into the fast changing lives and vernacular of Central America.
Contributed by Catherine Docter
Writer and consultant
Contributing editor,
Departures
Magazine
www.mesoamericanconsulting.com
Antigua, Guatemala
Ifyou'reinTodosSantosonNovember1(AllSaints'Day)andloveagoodparty,
youwon't want to miss the three-day annual town festival, at the center ofwhich
isaseriesofhorseraces.There'splentyofdrinking,dancing,andmarimbamusic
during this time. The race begins with costumed riders galloping from one end
of the 600-yard course, drinking
aguardiente
upon their arrival at the course's
other extreme before heading back once again. The back-and-forth pattern is a
survival of the fit-test with riders struggling to hang on as the race (and drunken
stupor) reach a crescendo. Traditionally, the riders hit the horses with live chick-
ens, though in recent years they have begun switching to whips. The races some-
times continue well into the afternoon.
By the end of the day, most people are lying passed out in the streets or in
bars (if they're lucky) in a drunken spectacle rivaled in few places in Guatemala.
There are always a few drunken brawls and some folks who wind up in the town
jail. The next day is Day of the Dead, and the festivities transition to the local
cemetery, where families visit departed relatives, marking their gravestones with
candles and flowers. There's also more music and dance as part of the final day
of celebration.
