Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Eve,whentownsfolkperformingthedisplaysdressupindevilcostumesanddrinkcopious
amounts of liquor.
Momostenango is accessible via frequent second-class bus from Xela's Minerva bus de-
pot as well as from the Cuatro Caminos Junction and San Francisco El Alto. If you need to
spend the night, your best bet is Hotel Estiver (1a Calle 4-15 Zona 4, tel. 7736-5036, $5-7
d), which actually looks nicer from the outside. There are 12 spartan rooms with shared or
private bath with hot water; some have balconies. A backup is the centrally located Hos-
pedaje Posada de Doña Pelagia (2a Avenida “A” Zona 1, tel. 7736-5175, $2 per person),
where you get a roof over your head and a room lit by a solitary lightbulb hanging on
a wire. Bathrooms are shared. The rooms are centered around a courtyard and if you've
brought a deck of cards you'll have to play elsewhere, as a sign clearly denotes that card-
playing is strictly verboten. For food, there are a number of very basic comedores near the
plaza.
WAKE UP AND SMELL THE COFFEE, THEN PICK SOME BEANS
Guatemala is known around the world for its excellent coffee. Arecent trend in
Guatemala'sgrowinglistofrecreational alternatives istheopportunitytostayon
aworkingcoffeefarmincomfortableaccommodations. Thefarmprovidesarare
glimpseintotheinnerworkingsofoneofthecountry'sprincipaleconomicactiv-
ities and an industry that largely shaped Guatemala into the nation it is today.
Guatemala's coffee farms are largely centered in the Western Highlands, though
coffee is also grown on the Pacific slopes, the Verapaces, and the Eastern High-
lands.
If you've always wanted to see the origins of the potent potable that provides
the pep in your step, you'll want to check out one or more of the coffee farms
covered throughout this topic, including: Los Tarrales (Km. 164.2 RN-11, tel.
2478-4867 or 5208-0940, www.tarrales.com ) and El Retiro (Finca El Retiro, Po-
chuta, tel. 2365-4468, www.elretirofinca.com ) , both near Lake Atitlán; Reserva
Patrocinio (tel. 7771-4393 or 5203-5701, www.reservapatrocinio.com ) and
Takalik Maya Lodge (tel. 2333-7056 or 2337-0037, www.takalik.com ) , near
Retalhuleu; Finca Filadelfia ( www.rdaltoncoffee.com . ) near Antigua; Centro
Cultural La Azotea (Calle del Cementerio) in Jocotenango; and Finca El
Cisne, near Copán, Honduras.
Activities include touring the coffee plantation as well as observing the pro-
cess from harvest to roasting. Some properties are on large private reserves and
combine bird-watching, hiking, and other outdoor activities with the visit to the
coffee farm.
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