Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Coming into Quetzaltenango from the Pan-American Highway, you'll pass this somewhat
uglytownwhichnonethelesshasafewnoteworthyfeatures.AmongthemisCentralAmer-
ica's first Christian church, the Iglesia de San Jacinto, found two blocks west on 3a Calle
from the main road (3a Avenida). It dates to 1524 and has a pretty facade with some inter-
esting carvings. The interior boasts an ornate altar and some colonial-era paintings. Salca-
já's other claim to fame is a pair of fermented beverages, including a uniquely fruity con-
coction made from pears, apples, peaches, and nances (white cherries), known as caldo de
frutas. Itsother adult beverage is rompopo, essentially aMesoamerican eggnogmade from
egg whites, rum, sugar, crushed almonds, and assorted spices, including vanilla and cinna-
mon. It tastes much better than it looks. You can pick up small bottles of either of these
drinks from local stores, including Rompopo Salcajá (4a Calle 2-02), a block east of the
main road.
West to San Martín Sacatepequez
Head west from Xela 15 kilometers through the valley to the prosperous farming village
of San Juan Ostuncalco, with a lively Sunday market. From the adjacent town of Concep-
ción Chiquirichapa, the road climbs into the surrounding mountainside before once again
descending into a fertile agricultural valley occupied by the village of San Martín Sacate-
pequez, also known as San Martín Chile Verde. Much of the land's fertility is owed to
its proximity to Santa María Volcano, which provides ash-rich soil. It's a mixed blessing,
however, as demonstrated by a 1902 eruption that buried the village in several feet of ash
and volcanic rocks. San Martín, a Mam-speaking village, is a standout for its beautiful vil-
lage costume consisting of a long white tunic with red stripes and elaborate embroidery
around the cuffs, worn by village men. The look is completed with a bright red sash worn
around the waist. The women wear bright red huipiles with blue cortes.
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