THE WESTERN HIGHLANDS - Guatemala - page 267

Zona 1, tel. [phone], $32 d) has nice rooms with private bath, cable TV, wood paneling,
tungsten reading lights, and nice extras such as shampoo and soap. The friendly innkeeper,
Celeste, keeps it spotless.
$50-100
A gorgeous flower garden and rock waterfall set the mood as you enter Xela's most
wonderfully atmospheric hotel, Casa Mañen B&B (9a Avenida 4-11 Zona 1, tel.
7765-0786, www.comeseeit.com , $50-100 d), with nine tastefully decorated rooms featur-
ing exquisite furnishings, wool blankets and throw rugs, terra-cotta floors, cable TV, and
private bathroom. There's a rooftop terrace bar with wonderful city views. The delicious
breakfast is served in a pleasant dining room looking out to the peaceful garden courtyard.
The haunt of Guatemala's oligarchy on visits to Xela, Pensión Bonifaz (4a Calle
10-50 Zona 1, tel. [phone], $65-100 d) is a beautiful hotel, though it tends to feel stuffy
thankstothepretentiousfrontdeskstaff.Ithasspacious,well-decoratedroomswithprivate
bathrooms,desks,andcableTV.Therearearestaurant,smallgiftshop,andaheatedswim-
ming pool in a pretty garden courtyard under an opaque ceiling letting in just enough sun-
light. There's wireless Internet on the first floor and the rooms just above it (numbers
123-130) get a signal. More modern rooms are housed in a newer section, but those in the
original building harbor all the charm.
Outside of Town
If you have your own car and find it more convenient to stay outside of town near the
Cuatro Caminos Junction, your best bet is Hotel del Campo (Km. 224 Carretera a Can-
tel,tel.[phone],$38d),withcozyroomsequippedwithhot-water private bathroomand
cable TV. There's a business center with Internet, a pleasant dining room lined with over-
hanging ferns, and a heated, covered swimming pool.
FOOD
Cafés and Light Meals
Café Baviera (5a Calle 13-14, tel. [phone], 7 A.M.-8:30 P.M. daily, $3-5) has a
decidedly German atmosphere chock-full of antiques where you can enjoy scrumptious
pastries, sandwiches, crepes, and shakes in addition to some of the best coffee in town.
Café La Luna (8a Avenida 4-11 Zona 1, tel. [phone], 9:30 A.M.-9 P.M. Mon.-Fri., 4-9
P.M. Sat.-Sun.) is wonderfully decorated with an eclectic mix of antiques, including old
signs, gas lamps, cash registers, and even pre-Columbian artifacts. Menu options include
greatcoffee,snacks,anddessertsandtherearedailyspecialsofvariousGuatemalandishes,
including delicious enchiladas on Sundays. Try the scrumptious chocolate cake.