THE WESTERN HIGHLANDS - Guatemala - page 262

Sat.,$1).ThemuseumisanoddcollectionoftaxidermyandroomsdedicatedtotheLiberal
Revolution of 1871 which, together with the Museo de la Marimba Jesús Castillo (also
housed here), were collectively christened “Museum of the Kitchen Sink” by this guide's
previous author for its antique dealer's garage sale feel. I have to concur, and unless you
havearainyafternoonwithnothingelsetodo,you'reprobablybetteroffskippingthisone.
On the eastern end of the park is the original facade of Iglesia Catedral del Espíritu
Santo, which dates to 1535 and was constructed by Bishop Francisco Marroquín. The
facade is all that remains of the original church, as a new church was erected behind it in
1899andwasveryheavilydamagedintheearthquakeof1902.Thecurrentcathedralbuild-
ing is the latest reconstruction. The neighboring Municipalidad (City Hall) was likewise
reconstructed after the 1902 earthquake in grand neoclassical style.
Outside the City Center (Zona 3)
The legacy of maniacal dictator Manuel Estrada Cabrera's quest to emulate all things
European, the neoclassical Templo Minerva is a monument to the Greek goddess of wis-
dom. It stands at the corner of Calle Minerva and Calle Rodolfo Robles. The temple looks
over the city's bus terminal and busy market. Farther along, in Parque Minerva proper, is
the Parque Zoológico Minerva (9 A.M.-5 P.M. Tues.-Sun., free), where there's an unim-
pressivecollectionofanimalshousedincages.BusestothispartoftownleavefromPasaje
Enríquez at 13 Avenida and 4a Calle Zona 1.
Formerly the Zona Militar 1715, the old building that once served as the train terminal
for the defunct Ferrocarril de los Altos was slated to be the new home of the museum ded-
icated to its memory. The Museo del Ferrocarril de los Altos should be pretty spectacular,
if a similar museum in Guatemala City is any indicator. (It's now known as the Centro
de Desarrollo Intercultural y Deportivo de Quetzaltenango, and there are plans for several
other museums to open here in the coming years.) The museum will be dedicated to the
early 20th-century railroad that briefly connected Xela to the coastal town of Retalhuleu.
Already housed in this complex is the Museo Ixkik' del Traje Indígena (4a Calle and 19
Avenida Zona 3, tel. [phone], 9 A.M.-noon and 2-6 P.M. Mon.-Fri., $1), housing a col-
lection of indigenous costumes.
ENTERTAINMENT
Bars
Beer drinkers will want to try Cabro, an excellent local brew sold widely in Xela. As for
watering holes,theever-popular Salón Tecún (Pasaje Enríquez, onthewestsideofParque
Centroamérica, tel. [phone]) is one of Xela's main gathering spots, with a great loca-
tion, lively atmosphere, and funky decor. There's also outdoor seating fronting the attract-