Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
History
Quetzaltenango was originally a Mam-speaking Mayan town before coming under the in-
fluence of the K'iche'-speaking Mayans of K'umarcaaj during their 14th-century expan-
sionist wars. K'iche' leader Tecún Umán was defeated by Spanish conquistador Pedro de
Alvaradoin1524atasiteknownasLlanodelPinal,southwestoftownatthebaseofSanta
María Volcano. The town became quite prosperous during the 19th-century coffee boom.
Its newfound prosperity, coupled with the abatement of Spanish power in the aftermath of
independence, contributed to strong separatist sentiments shared with highland areas to the
west. Guatemala City would bring the renegade region back into the fold in the latter part
of the century, though Quetzaltenango remains a strong focal point for regional identity.
Like other Guatemalan population centers, it is no stranger to earthquakes, having been
rocked by an earthquake and a volcanic eruption courtesy of Santa María Volcano in 1902.
It was subsequently rebuilt, largely in neoclassical style. Its strategic location at a cross-
roads for trade and transport between the highlands and agriculturally rich Pacific slope
have continued to ensure the city's prosperity despite any setbacks along the way. A re-
gional railway once connected Xela to the Pacific slope, but natural disasters and political
manipulation from Guatemala City made the railway, known as the Ferrocarril de los Al-
tos, extremely short-lived.
Orientation
Quetzaltenango lies a few kilometers south of the Cuatro Caminos Junction, found along
thePan-AmericanHighway.ItsZona1downtowncorehousesmostofitsimportantmonu-
ments, as well as the bulk of its tourist services, and is laid out in the standard grid pattern.
Avenidas run roughly north-south and calles run east- west. Zona 2 covers an area to the
northeast, while Zona 3 sprawls to the north and northwest. You'll find the city's bus sta-
tion at this end of town.
SIGHTS
Parque Centroamérica
Like the rest of Guatemala's important urban centers, Xela is built around a central park.
The city's sprawling Parque Centroamérica is lined with government offices, museums,
and a shopping arcade, among other buildings, and is itself splendidly shaded by trees and
adornedbyneoclassicalmonumentsandflowerbeds.ItgivesthecityadecidedlyEuropean
feel, enhanced by the presence of several Greek columns, and is a fine place for people-
watching or enjoying the warm afternoon sun amid the surrounding buzz of activity. An
artisans' market is held here the first Sunday of every month.
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