Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
About one kilometer north from the lookout, a dirt-road turnoff heads east to the village
of Chancol and the
Unicornio Azul
equestrian center. Back along the main (paved) road
another nine kilometers or so is the
Paquix Junction,
with its westbound turnoff heading
to the village of
Todos Santos Cuchumatán.
Its northbound turnoff leads to the villages
of
San Juan Ixcoy, Soloma, Santa Eulalia, San Mateo Ixtatán
and, eventually,
Barillas.
Not so much a hotel as a professionally run equestrian center,
Unicornio Azul
(tel.
5205-9328,
www.unicornioazul.com
,
$33 d) enjoys a spectacular location on the grassy
plateau atop the rugged Cuchumatanes from where you can embark on horseback rides as
shortasonehourtoaslongasseveraldaysthroughoutthesprawlingcountryside.About25
kilometers northeast of Huehuetenango, the operation consists of 11 well-cared-for horses,
stables, and wonderful accommodations meticulously managed by its French-Guatemalan
owners. Prices for rides range from $80 for one day to $970 for nine days, though they
vary depending on the number of riders in a group. The accommodations here are rustic-
ally beautiful, consisting of five rooms housed in two separate tiled-roof houses. All of the
rooms are distinctly decorated and furnished with unique touches such as gorgeous lamps
fashioned from Honduran Lenca pottery. At night, gas lamps provide wonderful ambience,
though there is electricity for showers and cooking. Room rates include breakfast and one
hour of horseback riding. Lunch and dinner are served family-style and cost $7 each. If
you'renotkeenonriding,therearealsomountainbikesforexploringtheruggedroadsand
trails all around.
Todos Santos sits on the dry western slopes of the Cuchumatanes. Remote and largely re-
taining its traditions, it is a fine place to take in Mayan culture, do some hiking, and shop
for unique weavings. It is one of only a few places in the highlands where you'll still see
men wearing traditional attire, consisting of bright red pants with thin white stripes paired
with a zany striped shirt featuring oversize, elaborately embroidered collars. The costume
also includes a straw hat with a wide, blue, grommeted ribbon. The women wear equally
stunningpurple
huipiles
andembroidermanyitemswiththetown'ssignaturedesigns.Con-
tributingtotheremarkablepreservationoflocalcustomsanddressistheintenselocalpride
of Todos Santos's Mam-speaking residents, who stand a full head taller than most other
Mayan indigenous peoples.
The village first gained notoriety after social scientist and world traveler Maud Oakes
spent two years here starting in 1945 and wrote two topics about her experiences,
The Two
Crosses of Todos Santos
and
Beyond the Windy Place.
The local Mam hold four local
