Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Zaculeu
Zaculeu (8 A.M.-6 P.M. daily, $3.50) was the principal Mam ceremonial site. Dating to the
Early Classic period(A.D.400-700),itshowssignsofhavingbeenoccupied formorethan
1,000 years until it was conquered by Gonzalo de Alvarado, brother of Guatemala's other
infamousconquistador,inOctober1525.Itwasstarvationthateventuallydidthelocalpop-
ulation in, as Alvarado and his troops simply staked out the fortified city (surrounded by
ravines) for two months, cutting off rescue attempts from neighboring Mam villages with
the help of the Spanish cavalry and 2,000 Mexica and K'iche' allies.
More than any of the other highland Mayan sites such as K'umarcaaj and Iximché,
Zaculeu somehow manages to evoke the feel of the city as it might have looked in its hey-
day, thanks to a 1950s restoration project covering the restored temples in graying white
plaster. At the same time, the temples lack the bright coloring they most certainly would
have had and similarly lack any of their decorative details. The highest of its temple pyr-
amids, Structure I, rises to about 12 meters. Another somewhat impressive structure is
Structure 13, on the southeast corner of the main plaza. The site also has an interesting
I-shaped ball court. There's an on-site museum with some interesting displays on the siege
of the city as well as burial pieces found beneath Structure I.
Snacks and refreshments are available from a couple of simple eateries across from the
main entrance to the park.
To get here, you can hire a cab from the central plaza for about $6, which includes about
an hour at the ruins. Otherwise, there are frequent, cheap local buses heading out this way
from 2a Calle and 7a Avenida near Hotel San Luis de la Sierra.
GUIDE COMPANIES
Quetzaltenango-based Adrenalina Tours has closed the office it once had in Huehueten-
ango, though you can still hire the services of its knowledgeable local driver. Mario
Martínez (tel. 5762-1903 or 7764-6897, mario_huehuetenango@ yahoo.com), and his
4WD vehicle can take you to any of Huehuetenango's frontier attractions, such as the Pa-
quix plateau and nearby villages.
NIGHTLIFE
When Huehuetecos want to party, they tend to head to Xela. Still, there are a few good
placesintownforenjoyinganeveningcocktail,including El Estribo (6aAvenidabetween
3a and 4a Calle Zona 1) and Café Bar Los Altos (5a Calle 6-85 Zona 1).
SHOPPING
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