Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
around a pole while tied with ropes, eventually descending to the ground. The event takes
place during the annual fiesta, usually the second week in August.
Pachalum
Ahighlightofthisback-doorroutetoGuatemalaCityisPachalum,aprosperoustownonly
21 years old; it has become a development model for the rest of Guatemala, having re-
ceived international acclaim for its widespread citizen participation in local government,
decentralization of local political power structures, and financial transparency. It should be
noted that much of this development has taken place with assistance from USAID, which
chose Pachalum as a project site because of its young age and the chance to start off with a
cleanslate.Accesstopotablewater,electricity,healthcare,andeducationarewidelyavail-
able and there are municipal offices dedicated to Women's Vocational Training and Chil-
drenandYouth.Thetownevenhasitsownwebsite,foundat
www.pachalum.com
.
Itisjust
72 kilometers from Guatemala City and, while not necessarily a tourism destination in the
traditional sense, it is certainly worth a look if you go this way, at least for the chance to
see what a developed Guatemala might someday resemble.
Should you need to stay here,
Hotel Nancy
(northwest of the plaza) or
Hotel Posada
del Sol
(150 meters from city hall on Avenida Los Geranios and Calle Las Ilusiones, Zona
4) are good, inexpensive hotels.
Mixco Viejo
The paved road from Pachalum to Guatemala City also provides convenient access to the
siteofMixcoViejo,about12kilometerssouthofPachalumand59kilometersnorthwestof
Guatemala City. Situated on a promontory overlooking the Río Pixcayá and surrounded by
spectacular ravines on all sides, Mixco Viejo is the former Poqomam capital and ceremo-
nial center, consisting of several low-rise pyramids and two ball courts. There is only one
way in or out of the city, this being a narrow causeway. Although it came under Kaqchikel
influence shortlybeforefalling totheSpanish in1525,itshowsheavyToltec andAztec in-
fluences, including a pair of sculptures of open-mouthed serpents with small human skulls
adorning the ball court. The latter is a replica, with the original having been removed to
Guatemala City.
The site, consisting of about 120 structures, was restored in the 1950s and '60s by a
French expedition. It is thought to have harbored a population of about 10,000 at the time
ofSpanishcontact. AccordingtoSpanishaccountsofthecity'ssiege,thebattle wasfought
in the plains near the city after Poqomam warriors from Chinautla attacked the Spanish
from behind. The few survivors then pointed the way to a secret entrance to the city, which
the Spanish entered practically unopposed to destroy and kill in a merciless fashion.
Mixco Viejo is open 7 A.M.-4:30 P.M. daily. Admission to the site is $3.50. To get here,
hop on any of the buses headed to Pachalum from Guatemala City (four daily); they stop
