THE WESTERN HIGHLANDS - Guatemala - page 223

ated to a deity of thunder and lightning. Modern-day worshippers still perform rituals here,
as it remains an important site for the Mayans. Much of the temple's exterior stonework
has been vandalized and removed for use in local construction. The circular foundations of
Templo K'ucumatz can also be seen and are all that remains of a previous building about
four meters in diameter with a doorway in the shape of a snake head. A ball court lies to
the east of here. Beneath the ruins on the site's southern escarpment is a long, 100-meter
tunnel. It's debated whether it was built by the K'iche' to hide the women and children
pending the Spanish arrival or as a representation of the mythical caves of Tula mentioned
in the Popol Vuh. The site is revered by modern-day Mayans and is also a place for fre-
quent rituals, including candle and flower petal offerings and chicken sacrifices. Bring a
flashlightifyougointothecave,asthereareanumberofsidetunnels,atleastoneofwhich
ends in a dark, deep chasm. Watch your step.
See THE HAUNTED HILL OF PACHALUM
Theruinsareopen8A.M.-5P.M.dailyandadmissioncostsabout$1.50.There'sasmall
museum at the entrance with displays on the site's history, including a three-dimensional
diagram of how it may have looked in its heyday. The easiest way to get here is to take
a cab from the center of town, which should cost about $9 round-trip including an hour's
wait time. You can also walk for about 45 minutes from the center of town, heading south
fromtheplazaalong2aAvenidaandturningrightonto10aCalle,fromwhereit'sastraight
shot to the ruins.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Quiché'sbasicsmatteringofaccommodationsincludes Hotel Rey K'iche' (tel.[phone],
8aCalle0-39Zona5,$10-13d),twoblocksnorthofthebusterminal,wherethe22spotless
rooms mostly have private hot-water bathroom and cable TV. There's also a decent cafet-
eria. Friendly Hotel Maya Quiché (3a Avenida 4-19 Zona 1, tel. [phone], $10-13 d)
is conveniently situated a block west of the plaza and has large rooms with or without
private bathroom. With several rooms in a multistory building around a parking lot/court-
yard, the 42-room Hotel Monte Bello (4a Avenida 9-16 Zona 1, tel. [phone], $20-35
d) is probably the nicest place in town. There are rooms with shared or private bath and
large in-room TVs for your entertainment. Hotel San Pascual (7a Calle 0-43 Zona 1, tel.
7757-1107, $7-13 d), between the bus terminal and central plaza, has clean rooms with or
without private bathroom with the added bonus of pleasant plant-filled courtyards.
FOOD
El Torito Steakhouse (3a Avenida 4-35 Zona 1), one block west of the plaza, has decent-
valuesetlunchesforabout$4andasomewhatinterestingcowboyambiencecompletewith