THE WESTERN HIGHLANDS - Guatemala - page 219

glass-encased Christ statue inside, which is paraded through town during Holy Week pro-
cessions.
Museo Rossbach
This small museum (5a Avenida 4-47 Zona 1, 8 A.M.-noon and 2-4 P.M. Tues., Wed., Fri.,
Sat., 8 A.M.-4 P.M. Thurs., 8 A.M.-2 P.M. Sun., $0.75) harbors a collection of jade ob-
jects, including necklaces and figurines in addition to historical objects such as ceremonial
masks, obsidian spearheads, and incense burners. It's named after Hugo Rossbach, a Ger-
man who served as the town's Catholic priest for many years until his death in 1944.
Pascual Abaj
OnahilljustoutsideoftownisthisMayanshrinededicatedtotheearthgodHuyupTak'ah
(Mountain Plain) where worshippers gather frequently to perform ceremonies. The idol is
a blackened Pre-Columbian sculpture standing about a meter tall and lined with stones,
candles, and sacrificial offerings of booze. It has been around for centuries. Ceremonies
performed by a Mayan shaman usually involve much incense, liquor-drinking, chanting,
and offerings of candles, flowers, and maybe even a sacrificial chicken. If you happen to
stumble upon one of these ceremonies during your visit, be sure to keep your distance and
refrainfromtakingphotographs.Youcanalwaysaskforpermission,butdon'tbesurprised
if the answer is a firm “no.” To get to the shrine, walk down 5a Avenida from the main
plaza turning right onto 9a Calle. At the bottom of the hill found along this street, head left
onto a path through the signposted morerías (mask workshops) found there. The path con-
tinues uphill from there to the hilltop site. It's best to go in a group and earlier in the day,
as robberies of tourists along this route are not infrequent.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Under $25
Hospedaje Girón (6a Calle 4-52 Zona 1, tel. [phone]) has basic, passable rooms for $7
d with shared bath or $13 d with private bath. The rooms downstairs can feel a bit damp.
Friendly Hotel y Cafetería Tutto's (12Calle6-29Zona1,tel.[phone],$18d)hasspot-
less rooms with private bathroom and cable TV in addition to a downstairs café with beau-
tifulmountainviews. Chalet House (3aCalle“C”7-44,tel.[phone],$20d)isonaquiet
street and has pleasant rooms with private bathroom, warm wool blankets, and eye-catch-
ing textiles.
$25-50
The excellent-value Posada El Arco (4a Calle 4-36 Zona 1, tel. [phone], $30 d) has
friendlyownersandsevenspaciousroomswithattractive Guatemalan decor,fireplace,and