THE WESTERN HIGHLANDS - Guatemala - page 213

clothes made by local women and renewed yearly. At the far end of the church are three
sacred colonial altarpieces refurbished with more Mayan-inspired motifs by two local
brothersbetween1976and1981.Thealtarpiecesrepresentthethreevolcanoesinthevicin-
ity of Santiago, which are believed to protect the village. Local creation myths distinguish
them as the first dry land to emerge from the early seas. The wooden pulpit has interest-
ingcarvings, including cornandanimal figures.Thetown'snewest attraction isthe Museo
Cojoyla (9 A.M.-4 P.M. Mon.-Fri, 9 A.M.-1 P.M. Sat., free), a block up the street from the
main dock, on the left, with displays on Santiago's artful legacy of traditional backstrap
weaving.
Recreation
AtitlánandTolimánVolcanoesaretemptingclimbsfromtownbutunfortunatelyhavebeen
the scene of robberies, a problem that unfortunately seems endemic in the Lake Atitlán
area. Check with the local lodges on the security situation and for reliable guides who
might be able to take you there, should you wish to venture on the path less traveled.
Jim and Nancy Matison (tel. [phone] or 5742-8975, [e-mail]) offer
recommended horseback riding and wilderness hikes throughout the area, though they no
longer offer trips to San Pedro Volcano because of the state of the trail in the aftermath of
Hurricane Stan.
Accommodations and Food
Santiago's nicest accommodations are at the charming Posada de Santiago (tel.
7721-7366, www.posadadesantiago.com , $12 p/p to $95 d) with a variety of room types in
comfortable stone cabins featuring tasteful Guatemalan decor. It has adjusted well to the
recent influxofmissionaries andvolunteer groups,offeringroomsfor4-5peopleatbudget
prices. The lodge is run by Dave and Susie Glanville, a gracious American couple who
have lived in Santiago for years. Ironically, the hotel originally opened just weeks before
the installation of the defunct local military garrison. It was closed for 10 years and did
not reopen until June of 1991. If you're interested in the hotel's interesting history be sure
to ask for Dave's “Smart Aleck Interview,” which should answer most of your questions.
The restaurant here is one of the lake's finest. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served at
set times throughout the day. Dinner costs $8-21 and includes Cajun, Asian, and contin-
ental cuisine. All of the sauces, breads, pastries, and ice cream served here are homemade
and the Glanvilles grow, process, and roast their own coffee. Activities include fishing or
kayaking on the lake, Thai or deep tissue massages, lounging by the pool in a hammock
overlooking the lake, and swimming. There is wireless Internet in the lodge.
Just outside of town, another nice place to stay is Hotel and Restaurant Bambú (tel.
7721-7333, www.ecobambu.com , $55-65 d) with two bungalows, eight rooms, and a villa
housedinprettythatched-roofstonecottageswithfantasticlakeandvolcanoviewsfronting