THE WESTERN HIGHLANDS - Guatemala - page 196

Guatemalan hardwoods and adobe walls, along with solar-heated showers and low-flow
toilets. The restaurant and Lava Bar have phenomenal lake views and feature a delightful
array of vegetarian dishes ($25 set menu). A trail winds through the property's nature pre-
serve and includes a lookout high atop a steep hill. There are several common areas at the
lodge where you can laze the day away in a hammock or read a book. You can also enjoy a
relaxing dip in a hot tub or sweat away your cares in a Mayan sauna.
From the main dock in Santa Cruz, heading west to Jaibalito, it's 400 meters to the
private dock of Islaverde Hotel (tel. [phone] or 5964-7419,
www.islaverdeatitlan.com , $35- 65 d), with 11 comfortable, wooden A-frame cabins with
wonderful lake views and shared or private bath. Two larger cabins ($75-125) with six
beds apiece can accommodate families or groups. There are pretty gardens with plumeria
flowers, a beautiful wooden deck, a restaurant, a lounge with topics and games to keep
youentertained inadditiontoasauna,hottub,andmeditation/massageplatform.Allofthe
food served at the lodge is fresh and well prepared. The expanded beach includes a sitting
area. The property is the culmination of 12 years of travel by a young Spanish and British
couple, who have put many of the ideas found along the road into this splendid place they
see less like a hotel and more like a garden of delights.
Getting There
Santa Cruz is reached exclusively by boat. Boats leave from the dock at the end of Calle
del Embarcadero in Panajachel. For the intrepid, there's a foot path from the departmental
capital of Sololá.
JAIBALITO
West along the shoreline from Santa Cruz is the village of Jaibalito, which is even smaller
than Santa Cruz and is also accessible only by boat or foot trail. A number of lodges have
sprouted here in recent years, taking advantage of the remote location to offer a comfort-
able stay in a quiet environment.
Accommodations and Food
Wildly popular, La Casa del Mundo (tel. [phone] or 5204-5558,
www.lacasadelmundo.com , $34.50-72.50 d) is a charming inn built into the side of a rocky
cliff. There are rooms with shared or private bathroom, all housed in wonderful stone cot-
tages with outrageous lake views and decorated with tasteful Guatemalan accents. There's
excellent swimming in a rocky cove where the water is an exquisite shade of emerald.
There are kayaks for rent ($4-7) and mountain biking can be arranged via Antigua-based
Old Town Outfitters with at least two days' notice. The trail to Santa Cruz or San Mar-
cos passes right outside the lodge's back door. Meals are served at set times in a small