THE WESTERN HIGHLANDS - Guatemala - page 194

Casa Palopó's restaurant, 6.8 Palopó, is a bit on the expensive side ($15-30 for a typical
meal), but the food is certainly some of the best you'll find on the shores of Lake Atitlán,
with spectacular lake views from an airy terrace. If you're not staying there, it makes a
great place to stop for a drink and watch the sunset or enjoy a romantic candlelit dinner.
SANTA CRUZ LA LAGUNA
West of Panajachel and accessible only by boat is the quiet village of Santa Cruz La La-
guna, more commonly referred to simply as “Santa Cruz.” There are a number of good ac-
commodations here with a range of prices for every budget. It's understandably huge with
the backpacker crowd.
Recreation
Housed inside the Iguana Perdida lodge, ATI Divers ([e-mail]) is a PADI-
certified scuba diving operation offering Altitude Specialty certifications for $75, fun
dives for $25, or PADI open water certifications for $205. Due to altitudinal pressure
changes and the lake's location at just over 1,500 meters above sea level, you'll have to
spend at least one night at lake altitude before your first dive to avoid decompression sick-
ness. The lake offers a unique diving experience, including the chance to see underwater
volcanic rock formations and a fault line where you can see and feel hot volcanic mud.
Other activities include hikes up the hill to the village proper (20 minutes) to see the
townchurchinadditiontohikingalongatrailskirtingthelakeshoretotheneighboringvil-
lage of Jaibalito (45 minutes) or San Marcos (three hours). Check on the safety situation
with local lodges if you plan on doing the latter, as there have been incidents of robbery in
the past. Check with the Iguana Perdida for the location of a cliff jumping spot along the
shoreline near town if that suits your fancy.
Accommodations and Food
The town's original hotel, El Arca de Noé (tel. [phone], www.atitlan.com/arca.htm ,
$16-35 d) is still going strong. The delightful lodge has 10 rooms, half of them with
privatebathroom.Threeoftheroomsarelovelystone-and-woodcottages.Alloftherooms
are rustic but nicely decorated with Guatemalan fabrics. Delicious breakfasts and lunches
are served à la carte. Guests are treated to delicious meals consisting of Guatemalan and
European specialties for around $10 (dinner), served family-style. The lodge is solar-
powered.
Just next door is one of Guatemala's quintessential backpacker hideaways, La Iguana
Perdida (tel. [phone] or 7762-2621, www.laiguanaperdida.com , from $5 p/p in dorms
to $40 d with private bath), which has recently added some very attractive private rooms
for those of us who have gotten just a bit older. There are three dormitories with a total of