THE WESTERN HIGHLANDS - Guatemala - page 184

Scuba Diving
Although based in the nearby town of Santa Cruz, ATI Divers has an office in Panajachel
onCalleSantanderinPlazalosPatios(tel.[phone],[e-mail]).Youcando
afundivefor$25ortakethePADIopenwatercoursefor$205.Ahigh-altitude divingcer-
tification course is $75. You'll have to spend at least one night at lake altitude before your
first dive to avoid decompression sickness. The high-altitude lake offers a unique diving
experience, including the chance to see underwater volcanic rock formations and a fault
line where you can see and feel hot volcanic mud.
Paragliding
If you're the type who likes to fly by the seat of your pants, contact Canadian Roger La-
pointe (tel. [phone], [e-mail]) for exhilarating tandem paragliding
from the lake's steep mountainsides, costing $80.
Fishing
The waters of Lake Atitlán have been stocked with largemouth bass since 1958 thanks to
theeffortsoftourismpromotersatnow-abscondedPanAmericanAirways.Thesesamelar-
gemouthbasswerealsolargelyresponsiblefortheextinctionoftherareAtitlánpied-billed
grebe, which disappeared inthe late 1980sastheir youngincreasingly fell preytothe large
fish. In any case, you can try your hand at catching one of these elusive creatures. Most
of the fish caught are in the five-pound range, though there are supposedly 20-pound fish
here. The lake's 1,550-meter (5,100-foot) maximum depth further complicates matters, as
the bigger fish tend to hang out at greater depths except during the annual spring spawn.
Your best chance of landing “the big one” is between March and May, before and after the
spawn. If you're interested in learning more about Lake Atitlán largemouth bass fishing,
email [e-mail].
ACCOMMODATIONS
Under $10
Mario's Rooms (Calle Santander, tel. [phone], $9-11 d) is a long-running favorite with
basic, clean rooms with shared bath. Rooms with private bathroom (really just a built-
in cubicle) are just slightly more. Hospedaje Sánchez (Calle El Chalí, one block from
Calle Santander, tel. [phone], $5 p/p) is basic but clean and quiet. Try for an upstairs
room with lake breezes from the back window. There's a nice view from the rooftop.
Another well-run family-owned budget choice is Villa Lupita (Callejón Don Tino, tel.
7762-1201, $5 p/p), right in the town center. Its 18 rooms have good beds, rugs, read-
ing lamps, clean shared hot-water bathrooms, and nice views from the property's terrace.